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I wouldn't risk second hand injectors, euro car parts sell the new oem ones fairly cheaply It will only be the injector on the misfiring cylinder that's failing. So you only need to buy one injector for cylinder three. There's a replacement guide on this website

I've had this exact same fault twice and it turned out to be a faulty injector on both occasions. Having a faulty injector can throw up the exact same symptoms as having a failing lambda sensor.

I had exactly the same fault and it turned out to be a failing injector on one of the cylinders, it was throwing the o2 sensor readings out making it look like it was failing. The car also had the eggy smell from the exhaust. I replaced all four and the car has never ran so smooth and...

Mine was doing something very similar to this and it turned out to be a faulty injector on number four cylinder. How did the plugs look when you took them out? The one for the faulty injector cylinder on mine was black and charred at the end. Does it misfire? The reason for the rotten egg...

Update, Car is fixed, it was the cylinder four injector, runs better the ever. Thanks everyone for your help. Dan

Excellent, thank you guys for your feedback, I'll change it tomorrow and see how I get on.

Would a dodgy injector not throw up a fault code or anything like that?

I recently parked my 172 phase 2 up for a couple of weeks whilst I was away with work. Driving it home on my return I noticed it had a bit of a hesitation and surge when applying a small throttle movement at low rpm, (i.e. accelerating at 40mph in 5th gear). It also felt like it had developed a...

Well it's from k tec, apparently a genuine Renault one that is for a non cup 172, Came in the original Renault box etc... Meant to say it's a genuine Renault one, not that it was from the dealer. It's fitted now, I need to use the car and the old one is far too knackered to use. Guess I'll...

It's not an after market one, it's from Renault

That's annoyed me tbh, I specified that this was for a non cup, well it's fitted for now, I'll have to get it sorted on Monday when I contact the company I bought it off

Hi everyone, I'm currently In the process of renewing my passenger side driveshaft. I ordered a replacement one and looking at it, it isn't the same as the one I have removed from the car. The car is a 2003 172 non cup. Can anyone identify if the new one is correct for my car? In the photo below...

Thanks for the advice.

Seeing as though im an aircraft engineer, if I had disturbed a system during maintainance I'd make sure it worked by checking if. The latch was fine before the bumper, grill etc was removed, no rusty spring, no latch caked in filth etc... Maybe I must expect too much from a garage

I've tried all the above bits of advice (apart from crawling up the exhaust) I'm just going to take it back to the garage on Monday, it's annoying as I've got to take time out of work and do an 80 mile round trip to sort something that should have been done.

Hi yeah I've tried pulling the lever in the car and pulling the bonnet, also tried pulling the other lever under the bonnet, it feels likes there's a lot of tension and I daren't pull the bonnet any harder tbh.

A specialist as recommended by this forum and a fair few mates with 172s

Just got my car back from the garage after it had the cambelt and aux belt done. I've just gone to open the bonnet to have a look in the bay and it wont open. The lever in the car still feels tensioned, i.e. the cable hasn't snapped but the bonnet will not pop open. I know the logical answer is...

I've noticed for a while now that my phase two 172 has a whine on cold start up and when turning to full lock in either a forwards or reverse gear. Having read some of the replies to similar issues I decided to do some investigating. I noticed that the power steering fluid is black in colour...

What a farce, I think I'll leave this place alone.

I contacted these today to price up the same job on my 172. They emailed me back with a price of £685, not sure what's going on with that price.