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Tony - Im afraid that Holland is indeed too far! Ben - would like to talk to you about this - you know from our previous conversations that Im interested. Maybe we can talk when I get back from holiday in early August?

I get about 300 miles on average - thats with ported head and manifolds, cams, bretahing mods and custom fuelling courtesy of an uprated ECU. If Im doing a big journey and stick to 55mph, I get nearer 400 miles per tank.

Hmmm... TBs were top of my list before, but at the time the Willy bottom end came up I leapt at that because its so rare to find one. I think Im going to sit on the cash and wait for enough to TB my F7P 1764cc unit now. Ive also looked into it, but it seems to come to nearer £3,000 with a...

Henry - that 2.0 bottom end deal has just fallen through:( The breakers have "lost" it. Oh well.

Just been off the phone to the people who were supposedly supplying me with a Williams F7R 2.0 bottom end. Theyve cocked up and have lost the unit they were going to supply me with. Pretty cheeky really as they debited my card last Thursday. Moreover, I had booked my car into the garage...

Chris: AFAIK, the Willy box has a stronger casing, bigger gears, different bearings and does have a larger diameter secondary shaft. The Willys diff has the same 4.06:1 overall crownwheel and pinion ratio of the 16V, but gets a slightly taller 5th gear.

Seeing as my cat has given my Valver the best part of 100,000 miles of service, Ive retired it to the shed and stuck a de-cat pipe on there. Its a lot cheaper than buying a new cat if Id left it on and it did go kaput - and theres the bonus of the performance advantage of a de-cat pipe. My car...

What is commonly known as "Stage 1" (exhaust, de-cat, chip, filter/induction kit) will probably net you about 5-10bhp in the real world, make the car sound great and iron out any flat spots. This lot will cost under £500 all in, but wont make your car much faster and the 16V is a very expensive...

The Willy box has the same ratios as the 16V box - apart from 5th, which is longer. The Willy also has a strengthened case and better bearings.

I sourced a 2.0 bottom end from a Williams with 42k on the clock a few days ago and am having it all put together next week. Ill be able to use all the Valver bits that were modified on the new block and am hoping for "a quick one". ;)

Controvesial I know, but I dislike most of the new "mega hatches" like the Golf R32 (or any recent "hot" Golf for that matter). Massive headline power figures coupled with pretty remote handling and geeky add-ons. Only the 172, Cup and VTS/106 GTi keep it real.

Yup - Renatec. Im having the bottom end delivered straight there rather than having to hump it from my house to Bristol. Its still a fairly major job, so I want to make sure I go for quality rather than price.

Yeah, not a lot in it in 0-60, especially as with the 2.0 you have to take 3rd to make 60 - but the F7R must have some serious extra pull elsewhere to get the Mk1 Clios it powers well into the 14s on 1/4 mile.

Ive approached the idea of a F7R bottom end with caution as Ive heard from people like Chris H that the F7P is a better unit for tuning. But Ive yet to see or hear of an F7P 1.8 in a Clio that will either make more power or accelerate as well as an F7R 2.0. I will be putting this to the test...

The later Willys did have side impact bars (introduced to all Phase2 Clios) and a sunroof was an option on the Willy3. I also thought that they did have door speakers.

Agree. The Clio Mk2 1.6 16v (called 16V, then RSi, now as trim level) is no way near a VTS or 106 GTi. Peugeot state very conservative performance figures, reputed to be based on two occupants, full petrol and a boot of luggage.

I think Id be hoping to move from about 130bhp at the wheels to 140-145bhp at the wheels. But its mainly the torque advantage Im after. Not that more torque, but you get 85% of it at 2500rpm. Thats impossible to get with the F7P 1764cc bottom end and means that you can pull out of...

http://www.k-tecracing.comwww.k-tecracing.com They do a replacement manifold for the 16V - probably adds no power, but will be cheaper than Renault. If youre in no hurry, then peruse the for sale forums and pick up a bargain on a used one.

My de-cat is the best cheap mod Ive done so far. Sounds absolutely nuts and is definitely not suitable for urban use. I have to keep in 5th in 30mph zones to not sound like a Nova. The only thing is that you get a first stage induction rumble at about 2-3000rpm with a de-cat, which sounds a...

The Willy shares every chassis and body part with the 16V, apart from a slightly enlarged and colour-coded rear spoiler (certainly on Phase2 ones). The weight of different models will vary with the options and time of manufacture. A late Phase2 will weigh more due to extra soundproofing and...

The main thing about the 16V/Williams is that the engine is in a small engine bay. Just tightening the auxillary belt means taking the headlamp off and having to have the hands of a stunted five year old to get at the pulley. Nothing special about the cars apart from that, although speaking...

Yeah, Ive been looking into TBs on my F7P engine for a while, but this offer has kind of come up all of a sudden and for once I happen to have enough cash to do it. I figured that Id still have to save for another year to do TBs properly and I might as well wait a little longer, but do it to an...

Ah ha! Good thinking Batman.

The in-depth CCC article on the Clio 16V and development of the Williams claims that using 98ron fuel is equivalent to adding 5bhp - but thats the first Ive heard of it and havent experienced it myself while using it. I just go for the best quality fuel I can at the time.

Ben - yeah, Im up for a track day but have to get the engine fitted then am off on holiday for three weeks, so not that soon! I would most certainly lose against someone who has been karting since he was a kiddo! Im sure HP would be able to change their chip to suit my mods.

Im sure I wont. But it sounds like you regret selling your "shiney red beast" as Adi now calls it?

The bottom end and starter alone cost £450. Not the best price ever, but beggars cant be choosers. Will cost me about that again, possibly a bit more, to get it fitted and running with an appropriate chip.

I did a random web search last night on http://www.Google.comwww.Google.com at about midnight and filled in a form that went around loads of scrappies. I could barely remember doing it, but it worked! I feel a bit guilty as this search resulted from your post about not being able to find one...

And what about the chip? Can I get by for a few hundred miles using the F7P ECU?

And Ill wave at you as I leave you for dead on the dragstrip! Yeah, I was a purist - but by circumstance, not design really. I bought the tuned F7P as it was, but would probably have gone for an F7R if it were my money originally. Like I say, just too good an opportunity to miss as the F7R...