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My Valver uses at least a litre per 1,000 miles - so count yourself lucky!
Sounds fairly normal. High consumption can be down to worn valve guides and so on, but is highly unlikely on a low mileage car. The high consumption on Valver/Willy engines is due to engine design.
Meiguars (or Meiguars as it says on the bottle) are not the best. But theyre more or less the best available without spending silly money.
Try http://www.autopia.orgwww.autopia.org for more suggestions. A user called Faceman recommends Harley-Davidson S100 (I think) as the next step up...
If you want to use the car every day, then get a Cup. Warranty, low miles, reassurance etc - but a damn fine car with it.
If you are more flexible and possibly have another car to rack up the boring miles, then get a Willy. Still to be bettered.
Mat - I dont want to sell! If I could possibly afford to run the Valver and something else I would, but as it is I cant. It would be a shame to run the Valver 5 days a week on the 50-mile A/B-road commute Im going to be doing (although it would be fun!); it would deteriorate from the condition...
Beautiful cars all. Some real hot hatch pedigree there. Must say that I prefer the way the 16V and Williams look though.
Stay with the original wheels Mat, on the Williams! I know someone with multispoke silver wheels on their Willy3 and it look so cack. Just makes it look like a 16V...
Id say £2,000 if it was in fair nick, rising towards £3,000 if it was in especially good condition assuming a private sale. Its an early model, but its got lowish miles.
http://www.daz-uk.com/cliosport/guides/lowering-torsion-bar/http://www.daz-uk.com/cliosport/guides/lowering-torsion-bar/
There you go! Its for the 16V, so Im not certain it will apply to yours, but you get the idea!
The screeching will probably be the power steering pump relase valve thingy and is apparently a harmless noise that isnt worth having fixed. As for the knocking, it could be the suspension strut top mount, wheel bearing, CV joint, track rod ends or engine mountings.
Ive just searched for this thread as you hinted in another that youd lost the car. Ive been away for a few days and missed this!
Anyway, really sorry to hear that. I know Id be devastated if someone stole whatever was my pride and joy - be it a Valver, Willy, 172, 1.2, V6, RSi, Dynamique...
The 16v is fast becoming regarded as a classic hot hatch of the old school. Ive had mine for two years now and it always turns heads and gets comments/questions. Valvers really look the part and theres definitely no confusing them with any of the lower Mk1 models. The Valver will always be in...
I would do your research and strongly suggest going for the 2.0 F7R (Williams/Phase1 Megane 2.0) bottom end when you want something to plonk in the engine bay - you can use all the standard 16V bits apart from the ECU and starter with that.
To be honest, theres not a big advantage in buying a low mileage engine as long as its been looked after (i.e. lots of oil changes). The wear on the bottom end in particular is practically non-existent well beyond 100,000 miles. In fact, some of the fastest standardish 16Vs (BenJ, AaronC) are...
Dont think thats the way it works mate. The finance company (even if its owned by Peugeot) actually "buy" the car if you do it on HP, so they actually have an interest in whether or not the car is OK. Do carry on paying the monthly repayments if all goes pear-shaped, but tell the finance...
I could be way off here, but when I bought my Valver it came with an adjustable Facet valve that I think basically acts as a fifth injector to stop the car running lean at high revs and supposedly to help the car idle better with the cams it uses (often called a PBV, I think). Might that help...
Yeah, if you use the 16V chip with the 2.0 bottom end the fuelling will be all over the shop. I was going to post my ECU to HillPower to have the chip fitted before firing up what was going to be my 2.0, sniff sniff.:(
Have just come back after a couple of days away and found that this company have not refunded my money yet - even after they said they would immediately on Tuesday (8th July).
So they still have the money and have neither delivered the goods nor refunded the money to my card.
Luckily, I...
I had some Spax shocks on the rear of my old 1.2 (same application as the 1.4 RT) and I didnt notice any difference in the handling - although the back would rebound very quickly and would "bob" very nicely over smooth bumps. Think they cost me about £50 for the pair.
If youre not going to touch the engine then I dont know what you want to modify - most people are very happy with a bonnet bulge, fat arches and big bumpers!