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i'd look at something like this

40mm2 is an odd size (i would expect it to be either 35mm2 or 50mm2) it does look decent enough

i'd say not to the car audio direct cable as the insulation tends to be soft and it is CCA. i'd just ask the seller of the first cable you posted what size it is and is it copper.

300Amps means f**k all tbh you want to try and find the cross section area (either mm2 or A.W.G) to fine if it's right and also if it pure copper and not CCA (copper coated aluminium) also i'd get a meter over what you think as you'd be pissed if you need 3.1m and only have 3m lol

newsleecher seems to connect fine but searching for groups returns nothing. the telnet response doesn't look right either i get. 200 Welcome (fx35.am4)?

why the hell did i look in this thread. i put a cheeky-ish bid on ebay on a cpu and won it and now need the rest of the pc:o

are they still avaliable or have they stopped access? i've not tried them in a while and just tried them and they seem to be empty (it still seems to connect) had a few searches on google and nothing seems to suggest they have they have been removed/restricted. just wondering if anyone heard...

might be good as there is going to be an effect on the prices of GPU cards and there might even be a surge of second hand ones that people want rid to get some money for the FPGA/ASIC

i changed mine with 15w antex one with an angled bit was just enough to melt the solder but not the led

i was thinking of sticking some money into a decent miner but opted just to get a couple of antminer u1's and see how it goes. i did alright last time with the usb erupters.

you need to drive it for a good 2-3 hours in one go really to fully charge it. i've had the same problem before and it was the battery you lose capacity when it discharges so it might look charged but will not be able to start a car

batteries don't really like being deep discharged so i'd say your battery is now probably shot you have probably killed the battery + i'd get trickle charger that you can leave connected permanently

i did realise the have changed there traffic managment again. don't think i'd notice going from 60Mb to 50.4Mb lol

anyone had problems connecting via wireless to a netgear router (a r6300)? no matter what i try it will not connect on either 2.4 or 5 Ghz or on an guest network from the router. it connected first time to my virgin HS :S

yes you can. it's more to do with the fact that steamOS is based around Debian and sony doesn't want blu-ray playing software on open source platforms.

i'd probably rinse in some de-ionised water first to give it half a chance

the problem is even if it had a blu-ray drive, i highly doubt you'll get it to play blu-rays films as iirc sony put a stop to that when blu-rays were released.

best thing to do is set your multimeter for Amps (most will do 10-20) and take the head unit out and turn it up until it starts to clip/distort then stick one probe on the case of the head unit and the othe on a decent ground (something like the door hinge iirc) you should get very little...

i had an alpine head unit in my clio (a 4x60wMPO with external dc-dc converter) and that wouldn't clip until 23 on the volume using a 0dB test tone i still believe the issue is with power. are all the cables tight in the connecter on the back of the head unit? is it a genuine alpine lead? (i've...

fibre, I think you'd get a better internet speed with some wet string:clown:

i think the sata to usb lead is to image your existing drive

this is no better than a 42" 1080p set in reality bring on the 40-50" 4K sets

nope not at all

the standard renault speakers only have a HPF and that is built into the tweeter.

yeah will need to be plugged in and on as you will only get a true reading (as you only get voltdrop once you start pulling current) the chances of the fault being buried in the dash highly unlikely

no probs mate anytime :D glad you got it working

you'd be looking for over 12v with the engine running and then turn it up and make sure it doesn't drop below 12v. you will wan't to try and test it right on the back of the head unit. i'd say you won't need to go diving into the dash at all

it just senses for a connection either side of the S like line on the pcb it will be a conductive rubber on it originally

the fault will more than likely be at one of the connections behind the head unit the connections can be crap and that burst of current might of pushed it over the edge you said it was going on and off when you was moving the cables so that's where i'd be looking

some foil should fix that stick a ball on the end some how that will contact the pcb