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The non cup and cup subframes I have here are drilled about 5mm differently.

You'll need to change the ecu etc aswell if you're not running a VVT engine.

You can weld it in place

I have a box that will fit

Not really. It's a crush gasket.

I had one in a few weeks back that did exactly the same, at the same speed etc. Engine management registered 9488rpm, and it had undone the crank bolt. Hadn't done any damage to box or flywheel though! Pulled the sump off and it had spun big end shells aswell. Safe to say yours will be knackered.

You are aware that you need to remove the timing belt, and that it's extremely bad practice to reuse it?

Yes out with the old in with the new (and lapping them in, which is grinding the mating surface to the valve seat.) FYI, if you haven't already taken the head off, chances are the bottom end will be scrap too)

07969124504

Not on me, I'll grab some tomorrow when I'm in.

I can put a 3m warranty on it, it would just have to be returned to me for inspection should anything happen. But I knew the car before we broke it and it was a well serviced car.

I have an engine here that's fine 76k, for £250, or £450 with belts and dephaser done.

Engines nowadays don't require running in like the old engines did. We now have stuff like roller rockers etc and machining tolerances are that good now that stuff doesn't need to break in like it used to. The main thing you're running in now is the rings to bore. Which lots of varied load is...

The running in is done in the car, at the factory. That's why they'll always have a few miles on them when they're delivered. Most important time for an engine is the first 25 miles. My 20vt did 20 miles on the dyno, dropped the oil and started kicking it's head in.

I can do them for £325 delivered.

I believe I may have seen it, I'll have a check through my invoicing on Monday.

You want a heavy crank train to load it up, which in turn helps the turbo spool

Really shows that the GT/GTX series really start working over 1 bar. I'd like to see 2 bar (if you know me well enough I'm never happy until 2bar of boost is flowing!

I've got a 55k mile engine here, slightly down on compression because the valves don't quite seal after a cambelt failure. If you crank it enough I'm sure they'll straighten though.

Both

I just found they don't grip, just squeal. I felt the PS3's performed better.

They're f**king awful

So here it was in Combe spec; And I turned the boost up from 1-1.3 bar. (Amongst a misfire and a header tank lid blowing it's seal, which ended the run short)

If it ain't broke...

Ive got the genuine tool for doing them because I got so fed up with them leaking.

Only when they haven't been done properly

Not really. And the crank pulleys can cause engine failures as the stock pulley is a harmonic dampener.

The timing is set during this process. If it's done incorrectly then it'll be down on power yes. If the dealer has said they don't use torque wrenches keep well away from them

You can get a cable operation pedal box

theres always FCS :) it'll probably have more boost by then too.