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I'd just be swapping the lot, radiator, thermostat and coolant temp sensor if no history of them every being touched
Fan change is not right approach as that's just masking the issue.
For comparison my 170k 172 runs perfectly with no overheating in traffic etc and I use it every other day...
Great little write up chap, as said in the spotted thread, seen your car at Aldi several times over the past few months, we'll have to catch up at some point
She's ready for some point soon, getting pretty tired, but from afar and after a wash, looking resplendent. Such a great great car, love it more now than ever
Wrong, 089 in your car currently is longer geared than a 129 from the later cup cars. DCI I am not sure on in all honesty but 240 is modest really so the stock box with a quiafe or equivalent will be perfect
As above, I used to carry all sorts, but the cars been decent to me over the years so all I have is standard wheel change kit came with the car and my AA
Nah, brake upgrades on these are never really an upgrade just more hassle, the stock stuff is more than capable so it'll be repair and replace as necessary
Mega bonus, I still run mine regularly, heading into 170k miles now and she's a peach, although today coming back from Birmingham for work one of the front calipers is playing up and the brakes on front drivers side got a bit.....warm.... and smokey 😂
Never really checked, the rack was already on the car and fine, I just bought new inner rods as wanted to do them anyway and after some research found out the 172 phase 1 were all male so 100% would fit the bump steer kit and they are slightly longer so would have plenty of thread on them too...
Yeah as said, mines a 16v/ Williams original power rack with the hydraulics removed, I then fitted 172 phase 1/MK2 dci inner tie rods and they work with the bridgecraft kit I have installed perfectly
60mm stuff should be fine, may need ast top mounts for the shocks. Driveshafts will be too long so you'll need to do something with those, no idea what as I very deliberately avoided having to mod them where possible to keep components standard
With valver manifold and downpipe you'll want a...
My rear is stock MK1 as never felt the need to change it, just with 10mm hubcentric spacers per side and a custom fitment white line rear arb which frankly don't think really does much
I run full 172 front setup with phase 1 172 shafts, cup jc5 129 box with quiafe diff so shafts are stock length but have to be early car, 172 cup, phase 2 or 182 when the two piece came in all too long.
I run 172 front drive assemblies with 2mm off the upright to allow for Williams coilovers...
Cadwell other week, mint day, car was perfect with the new roll kit and geo and was stomping round... Till about 2:30pm when as I tried a tight full maneuver into the paddock after the track went red flag...... Outer CV joint popped off the nearside driveshaft again and this time snapped the end...
Looked clean and kudos for the bike in the back
Was in the Alfa cruising home after flying back from Cyprus to Bristol yesterday, tried to wave but you were in the zone
Smaller alloy rad purchased which should fit under the RS2 inlet a little better, currently the standard unit has to be shifted forward to fit.
Need to sort what I'm doing for a fan next, may go spall which seems to be the go to
I'm not sure about panels for the MK2 so perhaps eBay ones you link will do the job. However I'm more worried about the cancer in the engine bay, it's got a nasty case of scene ricer, I don't think there is a cure other than fire to fix that 🤭