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Are air speeds and the flow characteristics really going to have that much of an affect on a relatively standard engine? You may just be over complicating things for yourself
I thought both the feeds on the airbox was the same, circular and the standard ducting has a plastic piece on the end...
And you'll have to do the belts on the replacement engine anyway so you would be aswell spend the money and time on your original engine as you know its history
Destroy your original engine, buy a replacement engine, throw a belt kit on it and fit itand then it throws a bearing on your next...
Cant remember off the top of my head when removing mine but wasn't overly complicated
Have you looked on the pure motorsport website at their guide as it is quite helpful
Does it look like the bolts hold it in, can you see a split on it where it would seperate if you removed the bolts on the side?
Bought some sealey sockets and torx / allen bits off their big container stand at autosport.
Some of their new stuff is quite nice and it came with lifetime warranty aswell
If you can get a trade card it really helps with the halfords prices
If the car is left outside you could use the solar panel trickle chargers to keep it topped up?
I have a ctek charger I use to keep my smaller pc680 battery topped up over winter, its on an isolator switch aswell so doesn't drain itself
That belt works fine for me using the turn buckle tensioner above with cup alternator and top bracket. Everything else is standard. Just remember run the belt 1 rib away from the engine as it can rub on the cambelt cover apparently
Are you looking to just delete pas rather than replace with epas?
If so then you can remove all the power steering lines along with the pump. And fit the following kit to your existing rack
https://www.pure-motorsport.co.uk/clio-2-rs-pas-steering-rack-blanking-plug-kit.html
The blanking plug...
I could be wrong though. One of them has definately been replaced and one seems original on the ph1
When I fitted one of each the handbrake seemed to have a bit more slack on the flat lever
Dont think so, my ph1 has both the rounded bars like the left type
When I replaced both calipers on the cup from dingbro I annoyingly got one of each type
Thats the air intake feed to the airbox. Better replacing it with similar ducting as the original item has become quite expensive, one on ebay last week for £130!
I have the carista one from amazon and now use the obd fusion app. Have used torque pro in the past aswell
Havent really had to use them in anger for diagnostics so cant comment, I use obd fusion for monitoring dpf levels mainly
Eliminates chances of fluid leaks which is a big plus point when it comes to track days and motorsport
Frees up space in engine bay and allows subframe to be dropped without the worry of hoses restricting you
For me it was the ease of maintenance that made me go for epas
Resistance can be...
If the misfire is currently present then easiest way is to unplug each injector to see if it has any effect on the engine, if no change then theres your faulty one
Surely the whole idea is to do away with jacking each corner individually and not to do away with axle stands?
Costco have these in stock for around £700, cant remember if thats with or without vat
If you have the space and paying £1200+ I woukd be going for a proper scissor lift
Have you access to a volt meter? Check battery voltage when engine is running, should see 13 odd volts if alternator is charging correctly
If you want to eliminate a bad earth, take a jump lead from negative terminal to a solid point such as engine lifting hook or similar. Does sound as if its...
There is someone out Turriff way but think its an older guy, just seen him mentioned on forums before. Not the best to get hold of apparently
Think most gearbox builds up this way end up getting sent away. Will you be removing box yourself or having a garage carry out the work?
Castrol fairly seem to have the market now when it comes to oem. Must be a big loss for elf as they seemes to have dropped out of the spotlight apart from the renaultsport world
Had a good look around it on friday at the show, interior full of sabelt and rs branding. Particularly liked the door pulls
Got them to pop the bonnet but nothing fascinating to look at there
Older discovery like you say or a shogun sport, problem is finding a good looked after one that isnt going to cost you the earth on repairs. Audi / skoda estates also and avoid the 4x4 running costs. Depends how often the tow car would be used?
Is it completely out the question to drive to...
Just going by comments from MSA Scrutineers at events when they have asked competitors to change
For the inner anchor point use an eye bolt and a spreader plate mounted below the car
Outer point, use the bolt and threaded hole that was used for the lower seatbelt mount and a Schroth B23A eyelet...
It isn't advised to bolt harnesses to a subframe, I know it is done by others. Its preferable to have the seatbelt anchor point seperate from the subframe. In the unfortunate event anything happens to the subframe bolts, least your not going with it.
Also best to use penny washers for the cap...
Dont need to touch the aux tensioner. Fairly straight forward, few hidden bolts at the left hand side round about the engine mount area. Just make sure you've got them all before trying to pry it off