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No we stock them at work for all sorts of uses, but they are widely avaliable. RS Components sell them for good prices. Poor contacts could cause issues, but whenever you build in a new break such as a connector you are of course adding another point of failure; so on that basis each pin should...

As you suggest Using a large pin number bulk head connector is a great option; they can contain small signal pins (rated at 13 amps) or power pins (rated at 30 amps) and make a nice clean break through the bulk head. The only negative is they are quite expensive; but you need the quality for...

Well I assume you are using the RT serial cable with a branch for the ECU & logger - that will be how the comms are being sent; I just don't know full details, but I will look into it. :) Oh you can also see my cardboard switch panel in the above photo :cool:

Designing the loom is not difficult, it just takes a lot of time to work out what signals you want where - and how to bundle it all together to make a neat harness. When I make them I do all sorts of daft drawings that work for me - then I peg out the harness exactly as I want it - this also...

This is my Dash 2 loom if it is of any interest (un shrouded). It retains all the signal leads, Analogue inputs, switch & switch common lines and its own earth and switched power supply. Terminated with a ITT Neptune 19/19 connector. The harnesses in the car are entirely modular so this is an...

Take your time planning the loom with drawings, collect the right set of connectors for each sensor and get a pin out for the ECU plug - its not rocket science but it can be confusing! + you become fully familiar with the cars electrics - something most people don't understand and avoid! It...

Certainly not worth starting again to make those changes!

Re: James/BigAsh 182 Race Car by TDF... It doesn't get much better than this! *Pic He Yes, to do properly requires a lot of man hours, nevermind parts adding to the cost. A relay, a misc connector, heat shrink etc are all cheap individually, but add up the sum total.... If you need any...

Re: James/BigAsh 182 Race Car by TDF... It doesn't get much better than this! *Pic He Out of interest are you going to re-loom yourself?

Re: James/BigAsh 182 Race Car by TDF... It doesn't get much better than this! *Pic He James - PAS current draw is only an estimate; please don't take it as gospel :) Reg the above ^.. well you know my thoughts... Was it all just 'shoved' into the cavity under the dash?

Re: James/BigAsh 182 Race Car by TDF... It doesn't get much better than this! *Pic He Can spike at around 50A I recall - usually protected with a 60A fuse.

Can anyone clarify the following blue book point for me? Does this effectively mean a minimum or 25% effort is required at the rear wheels? Not ideal for a Clio I think you'll agree. Any help appreciated. Brakes 19.5. Be equipped with brakes which comply with Statutory Requirements as to...

Something in my memory is telling me the fuel pump needs changing too?

Re: James/BigAsh 182 Race Car by TDF... It doesn't get much better than this! *Pic He Thats impressive! Here here.

Mark, you need to check your wire rating in that case - you should have 30% extra capacity in the wire beyond required, with the fuse having 10-20% (ensure the fuse always burns out prior to the wiring!) (Maybe you already know this?) :)

Re: James/BigAsh 182 Race Car by TDF... It doesn't get much better than this! *Pic He The ring? - personally I would be going out there to drive it just as I would the local good main road.... that's because the repercussions of something going wrong out there for me far outweigh the thrills of...

That's no problem, you've given me a starting point which I what I needed!

Thanking you kindly :)

Any help? Out of interest what is a stock engines starter current draw?

Is there a chance the manifold could actually be a restriction at this point?

Re: James/BigAsh 182 Race Car by TDF... It doesn't get much better than this! *Pic He Thanks for Sharing James, great read.

Chaps, I need to spec electrical components to suit the cranking current draw for a high comp engine - does anyone happen to know what would suit? My suspicion would be between 75 & 100 Amps. Many thanks!

Re: James/BigAsh 182 Race Car by TDF... It doesn't get much better than this! *Pic He So on that basis I assume the 'software' required to edit the tables inside the controller is openly avaliable?

Re: James/BigAsh 182 Race Car by TDF... It doesn't get much better than this! *Pic He Ok, but what about the above?

Re: James/BigAsh 182 Race Car by TDF... It doesn't get much better than this! *Pic He Is the EC1 a open ECU with regard to calibration - in other words are TDF the 'key holders' to any calibration work on it?

Re: James/BigAsh 182 Race Car by TDF... It doesn't get much better than this! *Pic He That is a good point, I did not look at it that way. I don't want to get into politics, but I really don't understand how the above is possible with TDFs current reputation, or even the builds problems...

Re: James/BigAsh 182 Race Car by TDF... It doesn't get much better than this! *Pic He According to the start of the thread it clocked over 210hp / 180 ft/lbs when rebuilt - should it have made more in that spec? TDF..? I was under the impression these guys are the peak of RS motorsport work...

Great watch! Ford Ecoboost.... yeah right...

Even all the black magic gizmos onboard the GTR couldn't help him there!

:star: