Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
I can bring over some werkstatt prime, purely chemical cleaner no abrasive so may be worth a try for now. If CQ can resist tarx and ironx I'm sure it would be ok with the mild abrasives of a pre wax cleanser.
Maybe try it on a wing mirror?
You used anything different on it recently? Are they all over the car or just localised?
I've heard Hydr02 can leave marks if not fully removed. try a chemical cleanser like prime or rejuvenate first before fully removing, unless you've just had enough of CQ
Use 203s with green or orange hex pads. But only when heavy correction is required.
Also get menzerna 106 and hexlogic white or black for softer paints or minor refinning
Kev is the person to give a structured reason as to ehat makes paint hard.
But it's not the colour that makes it hard, it's the process. That's why I said the RS come out of a different factory, and historically the finish has been harder than non RS that are painted in the main factory...
@littlemissnaughty
Tesco Daisy APC for £1 diluted 1:10
AF spritz is supposed to add some anti static fucntion, but doesn't your dressle sample work on interior trim?
a TCE model is not a Renault Sport model. therefore I would have thought it will have softer paint, but you won't know for certain will you start to try and correct it.
I'm not sure if it is still the case, but the Renault Sport models were sprayed at a different factory to the general cars and...
renault sport cars are typically harder paint than standard non sport clio's
an orange Hex pad and 203s is going to be brutal on non sport paint and inflict a large amount if its own damage.
Clay the glass, ipa based glass cleaner then angelwax H2GO or GTechniq G5
Whilst the sealant is still protecting, a rinse, normal wash and dry then quick detailer wipe down to finish.
Protection length depends on lots of factors but should manage 3months at least. When water behaviour drops...
Silvers and light colours a lot comes from the prep.
DDJ born to be mild is a solid performing shampoo
Tardis is a tar and organic fallout remover. A tar remover will be essential, as is an iron remover. Look at tar-x and iron-x from carpro
follow this with claying to remove the last of the...
For use with DA i'd suggest sticking with hexlogic. 3m seemed to be better when using with a rotary IMO.
Scholl pads seem to be OK with DA use if you really want to change.
ironx and de tar every time you detail or strip and re wax.
provided you keep it well protected I only clay once a year as tar and iron removers look after the worst the rest of the year
I'd like to try G6 so think we need to arrange another little meet at Ant's unit so I can try all your samples JD
Can't really fault crystal myself. Does suffer some smearing if too much is used or if the cloth used isn't clean but that's user error than the products
Might have a new family...
A single quarter turn of the foam app on desire is enough to cover maybe three quarters to all of a Clio bonnet. Desire is very oily and spreads very well once the pad is primed.
Black magic details wax samples up for sale
http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?722696-BMD-black-magic-details-Helios-and-Genesis-wax-samples&p=9935470#post9935470
Only mix up as much as you need for this application otherwise it bonds with the minerals / salts etc within the water.
Even with RO / distilled water the older version C2 would still go off if left after the initial use
I have to admit this is what I normally get with the likes of C1.5, C2, etc no matter what the base.
The impressive water behaviour never lasts in my uses.and they've never been anything special at resisting bonded contaminants. I only intend to use them as top up products from now on