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:devilish: http://www.daz155hgt.co.uk/Bravo/DSCF0150.AVIVid 1 3.5Mb http://www.daz155hgt.co.uk/Bravo/DSCF0151.AVIVid 2 2.1Mb [Edited by Dink16v on 11/6/2004 12:09:49 PM]

Quote: Originally posted by Rorrie on 02 November 2004 are the jl amps the ones that porduce the same power over a range of voltages and impadances?(sp) yes:D

when speakers are out of phase, you will normally only get the bass distorted/cancelled

it will be fine as long as it dont drop below 11 volts so have you upgraded your big three rorrie???

http://erc.qmuc.ac.uk/cliosport/gallery/full/1099416280__melting.jpg :D also has anyone upgraded any of the cables under the bonnet??? (alt 2 bat,bat 2 car etc.)

http://www.maplin.co.uk/search.aspx?MenuNo=1433&MenuName=Shark%20Installation&FromMenu=y&doy=1m11&worldid=1Maplins?

yeah i was mainly looking at doing the doors, rear quarters and the boot lid so i was thinking of getting the 36 sq ft pack. would this be enough to do the areas above???

has anyone done this to there clio (mrk2 pref) just wanted to know how much room there is behind the interior trim. can you get your hand into the outer skin?? hopefully should stop some of the oem rattles

if i was you i would get another amp if they a 4 ohm subs you would only be able to give them 100 watts RMS each(or if they are 2 ohms 150 watts RMS)

nope dont buy a cap upgrade the earths under the bonnet would be better(they are really small:o )

better off upgrading the big three they only work on very very short bass notes cos they will take power away from your amp on long ones [Edited by Dink16v on 10/24/2004 10:46:17 PM] http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/vbb/index.php?Click here

ive had a power cap in my car for about 6 months (running a 340w alpine amp) and i disconnected it the other day. the bass was much tighter and cleaner and the lights dont seem to dip as much + points: there arnt any IMHO - points: there exspensive sh*t IMHO

no i dont think they are road legal but if you are going to get some try here http://www.ultraleds.co.uk/default.php?cPath=44&sort=2a&filter_id=11ultraleds

yes but the remote wire has a very limited current supply (usually around 3-600mA{3.6-7.2watts}) and it would be exspenive to replace the internal fuse inside the h/u

do you know how much power it needs??? cos it might be more than the h/u amp remote can supply if so i would take it from the switched live to the h/u

yeah mine folded under my car the other week :@ (had to cut it out from under car with a hacksaw and a hammer:devilish:)

the thump your getting is strange??? sounds like the amp is powering up before your h/u the amp remote could be the amp or the remote (no help) are all your connections really tight, i noticed earlier that mine wernt earlier and i nearly burnt my hand on the connector on my power cap:cry:

http://erc.qmuc.ac.uk/cliosport/gallery/full/1091280051__DS.jpg

yeah i dont think they come as standard(except mine:confused:)

retro-fit???:devilish:

sounds like the regulator has gone on the alternator (not converting ac to dc properly) or the brushes have gone on the alternator (creating radio interference[sp?])

yeah just what i thought to. i think im going have to save up some bucks to get this bad boy:cry:

just looking around E-Bay to buy a new amp and came across thishttp://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=18797&item=5722653493&rd=1&ssPageName=WD1VJL 1000/1 now the guy has quiet a poor rating but most seem to be because he didnt warn people about the import tax the only thing...

bi-wireable just means that the mid/bass cone and tweeter need seperate channels on your amp(two pairs of cables going to each speaker rather than one) makes it sound loads better (no bass to tweets, no highs to mid/bass)

i didnt need to take my door card off to change mine but just dont let go of the bloody wire i got mine from Mike172Sport

is it music coming out? that sounds awful or really quiet or it might be interferance(sp?) did you run the power cables and the rcas on the oppersite side of the car?

well it may be that you have a high pass filter on. try connecting up just the sub to the amp with the rcas straight from the h/u.

yeah use the other amp itll probably sound better with a little more power. just split the power cables and remote and use the rca spliter to go to that amp. 800w RMS or peak/max???

http://erc.qmuc.ac.uk/cliosport/gallery/full/1091280051__DS.jpg

i tryed this and f**k all happend does the cd player need to be plugged into the car to work???:confused: