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OK i've found a rather worrying issue.
Basic eletrics, each injector plug has a switched earth that is controlled by the ECU to fire the injector, no brainer. The other wire on the injector plug is ignition live 12v+. Same for the coil pack, two negatively switched earths to fire the coils, and...
Tried leaving ignition switch on for 5 minutes, no joy, tried for 30 seconds off, then another 30 second (read it in another post), no joy, holding the interior lock switch for 10 seconds, blipping the key multiple times e.t.c im out of ideas :( Red dot immobiliser on dashboard is not...
Thanks for the suggestion danny, ill give that a shot tommorow. Would it be indicate a problem on the dashboard (i have NEVER understood when the red light should be flashing or not)
Rear gearbox earth (for loom) is tight, and so is the earth strap from the side of the box to the inner arch...
Help, just put my rebuilt engine in the car today.
Engine cranks over fine but it will not fire, not even a splutter. I have put the multimeter on coil pack plug and injector plugs, they arent reading anything (not firing), apart from the crank sensor (which worked perfectly before i did the...
If you'd damaged something doing that you would know about it.
Either spat a rod out the side of the block or snapped a valve. If it drives fine forget it ever happened.
There is a PDF manual for general maintenances on the engine cambelt changes e.t.c
There are also a couple of PDF's iwth technical information about bearings, clearences, pistons, rods and all the tolerances, if you want them PM me
I used mine last weekend, pretty sure they are M10 (like 99% sure), i pikied it a bit, i screwed in quality M10 studding on the top 2 bell housing bolts on the block. and then used nuts to secure it to the engine stand.
There is a stud that goes through the engine stand but not long enough to...
Ok, but without sounding rude, what help is wasting money on an engine stethescope going to be? He's still going to have to rip the engine apart regardless or what the fault is.
It's probably a good idea to get a fully ester based synthetic oil if its majority time is on track, and i think all the oils you posted are exactly that, so i doubt you can go wrong with any of them.
You can't remove the compensator, it restricts fluid pressure to the rear callipers, with it removed the rear brakes would lock up all the time. Either remove and replace with a manual bias valve.... or just leave it as it is ;)
You have 3 options.
1) Find a new bottom end and use your existing cylinder head
2) Replace the entire engine.
3) Rebuild your bottom end.
Advise against rebuilding bottom end as the crank will be mangled and grinding cranks usually doesnt always lead to good sucess. If your a novice, just get...
Re: Cub 172's Flamer Project
I'll share pics of mine, i wouldnt believe it to be a lot different and wasn't told its a secret. Just a good routing of induction hose and a universal RAMAIR foam induction kit. Although mine isnt a finished product.
Looking forward to seeing your results on ITB's