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Dan @ 519, Ktec, TDF, Portformance, CNC-Heads, Neil Roper

Much of a muchness really, i expect they don't differ that much in output from any other basic fast road camshaft for the F4R. I would expect 185-190bhp and 160 ft'lbs

Re: What did you drive before Clio’s Mk1 Clio 1.8 16v Mk1 Clio 1.8 16v Peugeot 205 1.9d Mk1 Clio 2.0 16v (Had 5 different engines in my ownership :D) Peugeot 106 1.5d CLio 172 Cup Im destined to have french cars forever :(

No thats a completely standard manifold

Probably my mate Candy always in a rush. Did it look completely stock?

Whooops i presumed it was Alan Jefferies rolling road who also has a DOS based Dyno Dynamics rolling road just like Surrey lol. How strange!

Interests me a lot this a very good read indeed, its nice to see you can reach a good level of power on a stock bottom end, this is key IMO as it saves a good deal of cost. Couple of questions (im seriously considering having a crack at doing this myself), the dephaser solenoid from a 172...

I made 175bhp at Alan Jefferies on my old ITB F4R about 2 weeks after i had royally fried the rings to pieces. Its a good rolling road and the lads are friendly down there. I got them to partially rebuild my bottom end aswell (hone block and gap rings), they did a good job :)

Alan Jefferies rollers are pretty good. I went down there and ran my ITB'd F4R'd mk1 after i nuked the oil on track and it made 175bhp, a renault 5 with a 172 engine made exactly 172bhp. They are on the money IMO.

Thats why i put the "~" i didnt actually check the price, i know you can get them imported from the states for a reasonable price

They all do it!

Google suggests they do with a part number of: SUP-REVI-28338F-2 unless i've got it wrong again?

A rebuilt stock block with slightly softer cams and lower rev limit will still net you 210bhp but cost you a LOT less.

£6k will net you 220bhp. (in component form) £2300 KTR DTH Throttle body kit + GEN90 ECU £300 Mapping session £750 for High Comp Pistons, Rods, and ARP's £605 Catcam 422's £130 Uprated Valve Springs ~£400 Supertec 1 piece valves (not neccesary but highly advisable IMO) £60 Block hone £40 Rings...

Where the coilpack bolts to the top plenum the "legs" on the coilpack have numbers on them to match up to the leads.

I didnt drain mine on purpose, ii had to swap the high pressure pipe in front of the return pipe so just pulled the pipe off the low pressure retrun on the pipe, its not a full drain by any means but a lot of fluid comes out.

My Pas was very noisy and genereally crap, was positive the pump was knackered. So i drained the fluid (which wasnt far off being black), refilled, and the pump was whisper quiet :) Wont stop it from exploding on track though. If it plays up i would be inclided to get a mettalic reservoir with...

Change the oil and filters regularly and these engines will keep on going

162 ATW's is too generous, something not right there.

*facepalm*

You wont see anything down the plug holes dont waste your time trying, i can guaratee the bit that broke off was blown out the exhaust immediatley

I'd personally just change all the spark plugs for NGK's and forget it ever happened.

It's not that part. The part in question bolts to the bottom of the gearbox and to the dogbone from memory. Its definately not the subframe to chassis tie bar though.

Are you sure this whole thinner glass business is true? I have the original 172 cup broschure at home, its mentions a lot of weight saving feature, but there is no mention of the glass anywhere.

Sorry to dig up this old thread, but better than making a new thread eh?? Where abouts is the earths i need to clean? my dashboard fog light goes mental when i push the brake pedal or select reverse gear. Ta

I had to belt the s**t out of my old discs with a huge hammer to get them off! so if they dont just pull off, grab your hammer!

I wasnt reffering to my own work, i meant when i checked the belt before i changed the cambelt (i.e the previous owners work). Tensioner was set perfect and so was the cam timing. Although i guess it would be, as he mentioned he took it to BTM to have the cam timing checked.. :P

Would prefer new where possible.

eBay is useless, Google is usless. GSF and ECP cost a fortune and would probably send the wrong alternator. Is this something to get through a speciliast only, or renault? Or are there some good autoelectrical websites hidden on the internet somewhere that i cant find?

Weld a plate over the hole, chuck a new rod in, engines good as new.