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Try flicking the switches whilst at around 2000 rpm. My lights dim at idle when I flick both switches, but if you give it some more revs (which lets the alternator generate more juice) they dont dim at all.

With the R-Sport ECU the light comes on about 100 revs before the limiter intrudes. In second gear there is about 0.2 seconds between the light coming on and the redline being hit.

The cooler the air is, the more oxygen-rich it is, so as a result, more fuel can be added to any given volume of air by the engine management. Cars actually make more power in the cold weather. This is one of the reasons the 172 makes 172 bhp DIN but only ~170 bhp SAE, because the DIN standard...

This is it - youve hit the nail on the head. Bolt on stuff like exhausts and filters are fine which is as far as youve gone. Their power gains are minimul on these cars, but they add the personalised touch to the car. And your right - why mod a 172 (as in properly mod e.g. turbo, wild cams...

Yea, and how long before that blows up? Dont tell me - you were going to alleviate the problem of too high a static compression ratio by fitting two head gaskets instead of fitting low compression pistons. And what gearbox was going to transfer all that power to the road? Where were you...

Youre quite right. In my haste to post a smart-ass comment I got the syntax wrong myself. Still Im pleased you all saw the funny side of it.

It is - it has a "genuine" Renault part number thats different from the standard item anyway. :confused:

The belt just turns a free-spinning pully unless the air conditioning pump is engaged. I doubt you could measure the loss until AC is switched on...then you bloody could!

Then why does he want it to perform like it isnt a 1.2 16v if thats "why he bought it"? Oh and [/rant over] should be written </rant>(rant in here)</rant> to comply with the XML 1.0 specification. :D

Seriously - if you want your car to go fast, buy a fast car in the first place. Itll be far less trouble for you in the long run. Thats not to say dont modify your car to make it personalised and your pride and joy, but you cannot make it fast with little mods here and there. Just my opinion...

Did you show her what it was like in the back? I bet the suspension got some use for once without the extra 3 degrees caster angle making a difference. ;) LOL

I second that. If I wanted a 172 I would have one. The price difference wouldnt have been too great because I paid full price for mine as it was one of the first in the country. It was sold to me on the basis that it was a limited run (meaning I had no way of haggling the price down)...

What course are you doing? Im in the same boat as you - BSc Computing Science final year project full steam ahead. Gimmie a shout if you change your mind on the MK1s and you need any Cup images.

You have to pull both sides together right from the start or it will not come off. If you have not done this, push it back into place, and start again. You need to lift it a little too.

Have you invested in one of these beauties yet Rich?

Im pretty sure you do get engine braking from a rotary!

Goodyear Eagle F1 GSD3s. Look at any tyre test. I have them. Enough said!

The rears are just held in by a series of clips. Its just a case of pulling each part 1 by 1. No tools required.

http://forum.cliosport.net/search.asp?search=R-Sport+ECU&searchMode=allwords&searchIn=Topic&forum=0&searchDate=1y&searchSort=dateDESC&Submit=Start+Searchhttp://forum.cliosport.net/search.asp?search=R-Sport+ECU&searchMode=allwords&searchIn=Topic&forum=0&searchDate=1y&searchSort=dateDESC&Submit=Sta...

This is pefectly normal. Tyre pressures alone make a huge difference between cars, and theres bound to be a few inconsistencies there. Another factor is coolant temperature - again, will vary with most cars. Yet another is the temperature of the gearbox oil. This will warm when the car...

Its been back once pre-ECU and twice post-ECU. Nothing has even been said, so either they cannot even detect it, or they can, but know its not an issue.

Good man.

Here we go again! The Clio 172 and Cup BOTH make 172 bhp. This power figure is read using the DIN measurement standard. The DIN standard is almost identical to the SAE specification, but I believe the ambient temperature must be slightly lower to comply with the DIN specification (68 F), which...

CHECK YOU HAVE A FULL WARRANTY - COS THE b*****d THING WILL BE BACK THERE A LOT!!!

I have replaced all speakers in my car and head unit also. The volume difference is almost non-existant, but the quality difference is very evident indeed.

Exactly that. You tell the insurance company that the alarm meets the Thatcham CAT 1 specification, and the immobiliser meets the Thatcham CAT 2 specification.

This is not so. If you have a clean history and a couple of years NCB behind you youll be surprised. I was only 20 when I got insured on my Cup and it cost £1700 with Tesco. 2 years NCB, 2 years driving experience. This did however require a £700 excess.

OK email me the results: mailto:i-do.not_talk@thisforum.com">i-do.not_talk@thisforum.com LOL

Well all new Clios flash their hazards once when unlocking, and twice when locking. This is not the alarm though, its the central locking. The standard 172 alarm doesnt kick in until the car has been locked for over 1 minute.

...hence the term Discussion Forum!