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It's just the small filter you have on the top on the oil separator is now the inlet to the carbon canister rather than the inlet manifold so you can do away with both.

Have you still got the carbon canister connected?

:S Of course there is. Personally, unless the engine was required to be removed its not worth the hassle of removing it just for the belts. Hire a recovery truck for £80 per day and take the car to a specialist or get the tools and do it yourself.

Rear beam looks class. Can't decide whether to go this route and get rid of the whiteline ARB. Looking forward to hearing how you find it at the limit!

Are pics 7 & 8 taken down under? :rasp: ​ ​Nice looking car though.

:lolup: Bloody iPad!

Hi temp paint isn't really required as the cam cover doesn't get that hot, about 75 degrees so most paints will be fine at that.

Pits not just you, loads of people say all the time! God knows why? ​ New bolts would be advisable as the threads on the old one will be gubbed so saves trying to rescue them.

They fitted the coolant hoses I got with the engine but not any other one I had. Lol Oh well, as long as you're sorted. :p

Sh1t, just remembered about that T piece. Forgot to do it before I went on holiday. I WILL get it off to you this week if you still need it.

Looking good mate. Not long to go now.

What pulleys did you use?

This is before it was fully plumbed in but shows the general idea. ph1 fuel sender ​Hope that helps.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sytec-374-Adjustable-Motorsport-Fuel-Pressure-Regulator-SAR001B-/281075330262?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4171652cd6 This is the one I have.

Make a new inlet manifold like I'm doing then. Far easier than trying to get some other head to fit and can be made to a better design too.

If you're wanting boost vvt is not the be all anyway. 225 head is not a straight bolt on either.

Get any adjustable fpr and ditch the ph1 setup. I got a sytec one that does the job nicely.

Looks tidy Andy! ​ If the wheels have been powder coated on the mounting face they need checked after every session as I found out. I now just check mine every session out of habit and good practice. ​Whats the plans then?

Did you cut away the cross member for the bumper?

Nice thread mate. Supporting by the sump is fine. Just have a piece of wood between the jack and the sump. Like the make shift crane though!

It's a map sensor mate. ​Sounds like a wiring issue to me.

Good choice matey, What power are you running? ​ Cant Gaz, on holiday! Want to get up soon though. ​You going on track?

Hi martin, The gt2860rs only comes with one flange size and I have the 0.64 housing. Steven

I'm building a similar high boost engine you're after using a gt2860rs and a fuly forged bottom end and some other trick parts. Might give you some ideas. http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?573987-172-cup-boosted-track-toy!/page19&highlight=172+boosted+cup

Glad you got it sorted mate. Looking forward to seeing this finished. :cool:

Just noticed this Danny, could've been. Very probable but cant remember! lol

Cheers mate, yeah pretty much vertical or as close as possible anyway.

Just now it would be the slowest race in the world! lol

Every time I mention doing mine in white everyone says I'd regret it due to looking grubby and glare in sunny days but I must admit I love the look of white interiors.

Ha, good on you! :cool: