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All 3 came on simultaneously and I did indeed confirm the ABS was no longer working. Managed to clear this once yesterday with a generic code reader (although it didn't actually show any fault codes) then they came back on when I hit a pothole. Having had a quick google I see people mentioning...

Anyone?

As you can see/hear in the video, there's a noticeable rattle that appears for a few seconds when first depressing the clutch pedal. This then stops while the clutch pedal is still down. Had the original clutch replaced 2 years ago at over 100k miles. If it was a release bearing would you not...

Finally got a chance to take photos of exactly what I'm talking about. The fuel gauge never used to come on with the needle showing a reading as high as that, at those miles travelled and the range showing a blank.

That looks like a cracking job. Biggest issue I've found are bodyshops who are actually willing to cut out and replace sections of metal. I have some bubbling in a rear arch on the Trophy, had a place in mind to use who did a lot of high end, older stuff and were used to this kind of thing and...

From Jane at BG Motorsport to me the other day- We do strongly recommend having the struts powdercoated now providing they are in a good enough condition to withstand the process as we can no longer get new outer struts from Sachs.

Likely thermostat I'd imagine. Is low 30's poor though? That typically what I've got in 5+ years of ownership.

Found the photo of what it was like before selling the car.

I would advise buffing off all the rust thoroughly and then using the gel to give yourself the best chance of longevity. It's good stuff but it has limits. I've touched up small areas (see attached picture) before, getting the worst of the rust off thinking that'll do and then relying on the...

In my experience this will be guaranteed to come back before long unless you get a bodyshop that really knows what they're doing.

I won the auction for these. Bought in the full knowledge of the above. Spares are getting harder and harder to come by all the time- can't get any of the springs or dampers new any more. If there's ever an issue with the major components (shaft notwithstanding) on my original dampers then I'd...

Aye that's right but he's not got any left now. I went with the ebay one in the end, still have to fit it.

Was it the petrol pump itself or is it the same regardless of pump? I've occasionally found the odd pump that doesn't work very well.

Forgot to get back to you on this. I'll have a look at the nick of mine and see how it looks. How much are you thinking?

Are you meaning the rotary switch in relation to the wheel? I was chasing my tail for ages on my cruise control fault, which sounds the same as yours. Thought it was an issue with corroded rear lights but that was a red herring and it was the rotary switch/its wiring all along.

Cheers.

Anyone bought this one? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Renault-Clio-1-2-172-182-Sport-End-Of-Bonnet-Seal-New/233462779242?hash=item365b774d6a:g:aW4AAOSwuJFeGeHR The Renault ones seem massively overpriced for what they are.

Around 36k miles.

Car only just got serviced in October. Cheers for those links but I suspect if I want to have any cover with the specialist should anything happen they would need to supply the parts themselves.

Perhaps I should have said anything other than what's covered in the cambelt and auxiliary belt kits as they're a given. Dephaser looks more like around £150 from what I can see and when you start adding it up along with other bits and bobs getting done at the same time you're into £750 before...

Dephaser a must every 5 years? Is that not a bit excessive? The dephaser I had replaced in 2015 was original as far as I'm aware and there wasn't anything obviously wrong with it.

Trophy is due its second cambelt in my ownership in the next month. What else should I get replaced that may be original that can only be done when the cambelt is coming off? The dephaser and water pump were already replaced last time at 10 years old and were fine so that's 2 things I won't be...

@NorthloopCup is your man.

The Trophy dampers reveal their credentials best on a typical British B-road with very rough tarmac. I've driven over some pretty rough surfaces locally to me and absolutely nothing phases them.

Should have said, it's a 182. It never used to do this, nothing near it, and I park on a flat surface. It shouldn't put the fuel light on and have the range drop dramatically the following morning when I've parked it up with 80 miles range left the night before. I used to see a comfortable...

Any common or likely issues that could cause this? This becomes more inconsistent in the last quarter of a tank where it can vary quite a bit. Fuel light can come on way earlier than it should given the needle position. First sign of a problem was a while ago now when I'd park the car after...

Thanks, I shall keep that in mind if I get a re-occurrence. It's been totally fine since posting this. Wonder how much it sitting doing nothing for 2 weeks contributed.

Appeared to be issue free today and was up to temperature quickly. I'll keep an eye on how it performs.

Yes but what I mean is on the 10 minute drive I was talking about, it would always get to operating temperature on the gauge within that journey, it was still clearly short in this instance.

Do you have a short shift kit fitted?