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Yeah I've seen a few posts about the rear main seal and have a picture of how it should be installed. Given this engine was fitted just before i bought the car and it leaks catastrophically within 1000 miles im going to assume its been installed incorrectly (unless the crank is ruined).

Clearly I'm being dim and cant get multiquotes to work. Excuse me. I don't have access to a ramp. I can borrow a hoist and do it on stands. Sump reseal is a plan. ARP bolts wont happen due to budget and not intending to keep it long. Space isn't a huge issue. Time isn't either insofar as I...

So have a clio with a leak from the crank seal behind the flywheel. I know I can address this by removing the subframe, gearbox etc and installing it with the engine supported from above. It's done few miles so the tensioner/idlers/dephaser will be fine, but the cambelt is just over 5 years...

Perseverance pays off Dave, great to see you finally find one!

Lots of trivial bits to sort out which is fine as long as you got it cheap enough, but rear arch rot is the kiss of death

The Mrs one series was sparkling graphite and in different light could look brown, bronze, purple and heading for phoenix yellow. It's a nice generic grey that really shows off contours in any sunlight and is actually quite tolerant of being dirty unlike a lot of paints

Get it bought, graphite is epic

If you don't mind my asking, what was the exact offence and weights? Thanks!

Certainly on an E90 you can unbolt the inner Cvs and stick them above the flanges with the diff in situ so that it just falls out of the bottom. Biggest time soak is getting the front diff mount bolt to line up when it's going back in

Or being recovered to the nearest safe place. Basically it's illegal.

Yeah, worst I've experienced. Try finding 5+ year old Michelin's that aren't.

I wouldn't worry if it's ON the tread blocks, but between them, or on the sidewalls and I'd be getting rid. Michelin's are awful for it sadly.

If he's anything like me, breakdown cover, and since the two punctures I've had on E90 were due to broken front springs, a spare (or runflats) wouldn't have helped anyway

Where the f**k do you find one of these nowadays? Even looks like it has arches!

Cant believe you managed to lock yourself in to the point of needing to break a window :ROFLMAO: How on earth you figured out how to use the BMW software tools I dont know. Every time I try to search how to do something I eventually give up because people are singularly unhelpful.

Nice find and looking good so far! Personally I'd be going hydro rack and electric pump I think but

Great cars, just a shame they were all front drive! They go well, and arent as heavy as one might imagine. Remap required however.

Yeah definitely! neat bit of kit! Cheers for your patience! ?

@f0xy Ahh, so the live cable is continuous, but the Cartek cuts the earth in the event of a short? I see the earth passing through it now, just big red cables jump out harder!

For the feed to the car, I totally get it, but in this shot it looks like there is a second cable which isnt through the isolator? (Unless I'm missing something completely)

Looking good! Unfused starter cable and exposed live bulkhead terminal make me twitch though! Spa looks fantastic!

@Sir-Dave I have 0.5 ETH, 1 LTC, 1000 FUN and 3.2 NEO which between them owe me £1250 and are currently worth <200 :p

So having lost last time, do I accept it and see how much I can get back out on this swing, our double down on my holding whilst it's cheap ?

haha I more meant sheer logistics, my worst was 10 visits to the MOT centre in a year and I decided enough was enough.

How on earth do you deal with Tax/Insurance/MOTs

Check the relays in the box beside the battery, if one of the mini relays goes faulty it will give exactly those symptoms

You shouldnt need a bigger hole, it just clicks in, run the cable to the boot and then code it into the car. You may have fun with that as the earliest cars dont have the option for it, so I believe there is some faff with changing the build date to allow the code to be added and then changing...

Yeah I've got it wired up now, just with the + button and the clutch switch. Works well for like £15

I've a 5" record and given the choice again I'd go bigger just to get a little more reach to the side of the jaws. Personally Id avoid quick release for simplicity.