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I think he needs them with the tangs. For the F4A in the Praga R1. There's a list of parts here, but it doesn't show engine internals. Maybe try contacting Praga? https://pragaglobal.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/praga_r1_spare_parts_pricelist_2013.pdf That part number also shows up for the...

Mode 3 and send it 😂

The torque setting is probably just there to stop you stripping the threads 😂 It's only holding the shocks in place when on full droop/jacked up. Loosen it a bit and see if it makes a difference. Can't see it being that though :unsure: You'll prove me wrong now you watch 😅

I've never torqued that, just nipped by hand.

Try backing all the bolts off and then torquing them up under load (which is the proper way).

I had this when I used to run Koni adjustable shocks. Sounded like the damper shaft that bolts at the rear top mounts was rattling from side to side. Never did manage to sort it. No noise since moving to BC coilovers.

Speak to Chris at Beaniesport over in Bedford, he's not too far from you. Maybe he can help. 07834 692507

Not as bad as I thought, that's only the inlet plenum that has been removed. See if you can find someone to put it all back together.

80grit sandpaper on a block works well but you will have to bed the pads to do discs again to build up a fresh layer of material, which is a fairly long process with DS1.11's.

What state of disassembly is the engine currently in?

This. Sounds like you're overheating the pads or not quite correctly bedded in, causing uneven pad material transfer. You could try a fully sintered metallic pad like CL RC6 or Winmax W6 that don't really rely on material transfer. Also check your pistons and caliper slider pins are moving...

I didn't mean they touched the timing belt. I'm thinking the aux belt has jumped off the pulley and into the timing belt, causing the timing to slip.

Only thing i can think of is the belt has been fitted wrong or not tensioned correctly and has slipped off into the cambelt (this is common). That causes the timing belt to slip and valves get bent. Get the timing checked with the correct tools if possible, if it's massively out then there's...

If it's just had cams i would just run a decent 5w40. On a proper race engine with forged pistons and higher compression, then 10w60 would be about right.

5w40 and 10w40 are the same at running temperatures. Either is fine really.

Never seen that before. You've had it from new yeah?

Passenger side under the dash, the body control module or UCH as it's known on these. It'll need sending off for repair. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283686488338

Which O2 sensor did you change?

Clear the codes and see if they come back.

P0130 is pre-cat O2 sensor i think.

Mine used to do the exact same a few years ago, it would flicker and then go off after driving in wet weather. It's never done it again after I cleaned the engine bay fuse box and gave everything a spray with WD40 or ACF50.

Probably 😅

Probably better off with one of Garmin's offerings paired to your phone tbh.

You have it fitted correctly.

Decent enough gains from 197 cams tbh. 421's need aftermarket ecu to run well, 438's are similar but can be timed using oem tool and run on stock ecu with a remap.

Yeah could be seat wires.

51L, it's only a 50L tank 😅

Are they gloss black? Paint protection film would work.

That's working then.

I'll be able to make it this year. Who's the track day organiser going to be? Hopefully do the Coastal layout session.