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Check everything is free. I've had cars with everything all gunked up or almost seized and the pads are left touching the disc slightly. This will have them squeaking or squealing while your going along especially if you brake hard a lot. Usually gets worse when you go round a corner. Don't use...
Ratios don't vary between the phase 2's not that I've seen anyway. The speed difference I found by hitting the limiter in 4th in my 182 and my 172 cup on track was accounted for by the difference in tyres. 195/45/16 vs 205/45/16. Phase 1 has taller gearing by a smidge.
Your main issue is the...
Anything that's due, any niggling faults that may cause issue within 4k (the very beginning of a worn wheel bearing or lowish pads for example) that you might leave normally, tyres if they will be close enough to the wear bars to make you uncomfortable about being pulled and any normal weekly...
I chased a 1 up Cooper works with a driver with a similar skill set to mine on semi-slicks for 6 laps of a dry Combe (last session of the day) in my standard Cup 2 up with CS3'S on. I was using every bit of useful grip the tyres had. I finally gave up when my extra weight and lack of traction...
Always heard good things about good year but never taken the plunge. Their mid spec tyres seem to do the job on my mums heavy diesel focus front end.
To be honest any of the premium tyres will have a fan on here.
105 quid a tyre for AD08's before fitting on camskill. Christ! They should be good at that price. Out of my price range these days for sure. I like the way the Cup feels on 195/45/16 road rubber too much anyway.
Conti's only melt if you make them. Just because the limit of road tyres is easier to find doesn't mean you have to constantly be on or over it. I made a right mess of a set of A048's in just 4 seperate laps at a sprint in a Honda CRX.
What would the people on this forum do if they had to use...
The Coil rots inside and the rust between the metal areas on the feet and the inlet doesn't help. Mine had the same cracks but bigger and a very rusty mess inside. I bought a second hand genuine one on Ebay with leads for 20 quid. That was two track days ago and the car touch wood has Been fine...
Jack it up and get a friend to press the pedal while you try and turn it. If they aren't working at all you see.
Mine are half rusty and passed an MOT at a Renault dealer so something is weird!
Get a little cleaner every track day!
Does the handbrake work? Seems to according to that. Like I...
Get any decent road tyre, find the limit of grip and then try and get some consistency lap after lap and hone your skills instead of resorting to semi-slicks so you can attempt to chase the first thing that overtakes you. You soon run out of grip with the semi-slicks and then want to mod the...
Check your damper part numbers if they are readable. You may even have 172 dampers on the back. Although I've found the Cups proper rears more tail happy in a really nice controllable way.
Cups seem to end up with all sorts on them.
Had brake fade in the 182 FF i had but that was at the end of a long track day and the pads were low and the discs were well worn. Replaced them and they were all I could want. I really can't fault the standard setup in the Clios. The Cup has really nice brakes. Work great in the wet despite the...
Like he said. Follow the link. It's so much clearer than my babble. It works though and even my early efforts while practicing at Castle Combe transformed the way the car turned in.
Don't be turned off the roll bar though. It is still a very useful mod.
Look it up online for a proper explanation. It's something I'm learning. In some circumstances you can brake up to the turn in point as you normally would but instead of getting back on the throttle you ease off the brake as you turn in keeping the weight forward and try to be off the brake by...
It will do. Just be careful if your not getting into trail braking yet and you haven't turned in with no power on before. The Clios will oversteer if you keep the weight forward entering into a corner anyway so with an anti-roll bar you may get caught out. Also if you drive in on the throttle be...
Some people like a challenge. Like the modified Saxo and 106 at the wet track day I did. Twitchy as feck. 106 went straight on at camp at Castle combe. The little 106 was quick though and in the dry I'm sure it would have run circles round my standard Cup even if I wasn't two up!
My car had this problem. First time it was balancing issues and the second was because a front tyre got damaged when it got locked while turning at a track day and some tread got twisted off.
The stiffer you make the rear end the more likely it is to oversteer. This can aid turn-in and the cars ability to correct it's line mid-corner. If you find the car still has a tendency to understeer on the first setting then try the second. Depends on what your comfortable with and your skill...
People will never agree on tyres. It's a waste of time asking. I manage perfectly fine on track with road tyres but others will destroy them in just a few laps. I've just got to the point now where I stick the equivalent to what Renault put on. Easy and I've haven't been dissapointed. 182FF I...
On road tyres I find the standard setup fine on track. Although as Fred has mentioned I always take care to do a cool down lap and when I get back to the pit I trundle round for a bit and then when I stop I move the car a bit a few times to stop the pads and discs cooking in one place. Have run...
Scare mongering. There is enough advice on this forum about making sure the crank is in the right position, how to equal belt tension, set the tensioner, fit the tools, endless posts regarding the horseshoe tool and prefered torque settings from some traders. This engine is very well covered for...
Should have been clearer I meant the class side of things is a good idea for motorbikes. The age side needs removing.
It should just be that you have to have the necessary skill set to drive a car or bike of a certain performance standard.
I have friends that tried to keep up with...
Age should be irrelevant. I think bike tests have the right idea that you should have to take a test for the class of vehicle you plan to drive but that should apply whatever age you are. Just because you've been driving twenty years doesn't mean you can suddenly magic the reaction times and...
Getting it wrong is how you learn. It's a damn site easier than timing Cams in using dial gauges etc because you couldn't trust the timing marks that I started off doing.