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Thanks for the advice. My issue is that 100 quid is a track day plus fuel at the moment so it has to be completely worth it plus secondhand prices for these are going up and up and I'm not paying over the odds for one. I'll just see how it goes. I spend most of the time above 5K apart from a few...

Turbo or just except it for what it is. N/A route needs a lot of work to see serious power and works best with a fair bit of weight loss. A basic turbo conversion will see that power and keep the car as a feasible daily.

I liked driving the 182FF i tracked but I like driving my Cup more.

I ran rainexperts on my diesel estate at a track day I did before I had the Clio. Even they lastest reasonably well if your not out to make a point.

Maybe that's the difference. On a soaking wet track I found it very easy to keep up and pass anyone on track day rubber running a set of sport contact 3's. The two accidents that day were cars running track day rubber in the wet. Which brand of semi-slick I do not know. Road tyres are very easy...

Bog standard car? Getting tempted by these I have to say.

Looks tidy :)

My first car was a 0.8 Daewoo Matiz. So you trumped me :) The secret to first cars is a good set of tyres, fit good discs and pads as people often fit the cheapest rubbish and service it properly and you'll enjoy it so much more. standard small cars are easy to sell on so resist the temptation...

There's usually some power to be found in a mass produced engine just by building it properly. Expensive though.

Mine is a 172 cup by the way.

Interesting. I have put mine into renaults parts software so I know my cup is right and I git the correct rear damper part number from here. As the Renault system states 172 shocks.

Battery maybe too big I'm changing it to as you've said the box is loose. There isn't a lot of room with right size battery.

Brackets are between 8 and 12 quid each from Renault and the bolts are about 2 quid each. The pipe that runs under the airbox may not have been fitted properly. Mine wasn't.

You can probably get the missing brackets from a scrapper or a car being broken on EBay. Might even be just a few quid from Renault.

Just looks like your battery is too big and the hoses haven't been put back properly. Don't think these have a MAF.

Looks like a battery that's too big has been fitted which is why that pipe is loose. I'd have to look at mine for the other one. One is a normal inlet and the other has an acoustic valve on the end. I'll see if I can get a screenshot of the parts.

Not that I've seen. You can't get them aftermarket. You can get 172 springs which will be unmarked (no paint marks but maybe a code or branding of some sort) if aftermarket and white/white I've been told if genuine Renault. If you can't find a yellow and white mark on an uncorroded springs...

Coilovers is one place it is worth stretching your budget. Particularly if it is track only and they are going to get the crap kicked out of them by you doing a longer session than anyone in a road car would entertain.

It switches over at either 1500 or 1800 rpm I can't remember which so constant stop start driving and short urban journeys will wear it quicker. Also hitting the limiter reqularly is not ideal for it as it turns off at 6500rpm but that is much less of a problem for a road car. If there is any...

Paint marks. White and yellow are the colours on the genuine 172 Cup springs. Give them a wipe if the finish has not rusted off they are easy to spot.

Didn't they do a kit to sort the K series? but yeah Honda do have it pretty well covered. Although Vauxhall XE vs Ecotec is an interesting one due to the way the Ecotec head makes torque. A good start with any engine is to see what a head will flow and how. If the ports can't even serve the...

If you were in motorsport I could understand this but not for a road car. We used to have a 1.4 TU engined Peugeot in the under 1400cc sprint class that ran a 1.6 16v head and throttle bodies to great effect but only because it was all steel and revved high enough to use the worked 1.6 heads...

But easily recoverable lift off oversteer. Unlike the snappy kind some cars I've had the past have which means a minor correction error will leave you fish tailing all over the place :)

Retired racer. You'll have no trouble getting some pace out the Clio then. You may find the electronic throttle a little tardy. Some say it takes a little time to get used to it for heel and toe. I'm sure you'll manage though. If I can anyone can! The cat will release some power as that's all...

Anything unusual regarding the gearbox. Especially any crunching or even gears that are stubborn to get into. Seems to be a running issue with some cars. I'd also look for any evidence of it kissing a kerb or having left the road based on recent evidence.

Mr Palmer seems to be throwing this one round ok :) Clarkson testing tyres on a Renault Clio 172: http://youtu.be/GSIfuZoaFOk

Engine mounts are easy. Just bear in mind the bolts may put up a fight but it's easy work. If you get standard mounts and bolt it all up as far forward as it can go you shouldn't get the irritating Knocks these are known for. If you slam it from gear to gear then it may still happen. Usually...

At least he's having fun I guess. In a very odd sort of way.

I found that mintex ceratec grease holds up quite well on brake parts. That is the strangest reply regarding car handling I've ever seen. Why buy a 200 and then ruin it's handling balance!? Each to their own I guess.