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Try them as well then. Were the big fuses next to the relays ok? The 30A and 60A ones?

That wouldn't be linked to your lights and stuff though :unsure: Have you checked the fuses in the engine bay next to the battery?

See if you can get a spare resistor pack off a mate or something to test.

If you unplug it, I think it's pins 1 and 5 you can bridge together with some wire to get the fan going full speed. If that works then you know the resistor pack is dead.

Think i saw your post on the Facebook page the other day. Have you tried the resistor pack for the fans, it's under the scuttle panel on the left near to where the cabin filter is.

I think on mine it must be the s**t roads and stiff suspension that's breaking them.

They are a thing for Mk3 calipers, I'm sure there are some for the Mk2 somewhere. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Titanium-Brake-Pad-Shims-for-Megane-3-RS-front-brembo-calipers-06mm-/254643912260

Nice! Need to do my adjusters again, snapped again and i've not even touched them :unsure:

Just having the caliper made out of aluminium is a lot better than cast steel. Fit some titanium shims as well to keep the heat off the piston seals and transferring heat into the fluid.

You'd think they would put something in the car menu to be able to do it.

Not sure why you've tagged me 🤔😅

The Duo one I have is brilliant, went for the medium but for larger cars I'd get the large because they soak up that much water that the medium becomes pretty saturated on larger cars. Excel Detailing Supplies Carbon Collective do their own version too.

Maybe gearbox battery tray mount too. Check every bolt if you have time.

Check ball joint bolts to the wishbone are tight and also the subframe bolts.

All a bit of a con at the minute. From what I've seen there's no benefit to it over the usual SiO2 coatings. They're literally putting graphene powder into the liquid and selling it 😂

Sounds like they've had a mixup and sent the wrong one.

Where did you get it from?

Yeah that's not the right one, for a 182 at least.

Nah the sensor is further underneath and the wiring is over to the right at the back of the subframe.

Yeah that's not related. Fluid fault would normally be the handbrake and stop light flickering.

Ahh, bit low that yeah. Maybe just swing off it with a breaker bar, that should be about right 😂

What does your wrench go up to?

It appears they've changed then and he has the correct one.

New cable doesn't look genuine, unless they've changed the design.

Yeah it's worth pumping the pedal at the same time, that's what I do with my pressure bleeder. Just don't press the pedal all the way down, it can flip the seals in the master cylinder. Failing that you may have a bit of air in the abs unit, which you'll need Clip or RSTuner for.

What are you using to bleed? Manual method or a pressure bleeder?

Yeah Unilite have a good rep from what I've seen. I've got the small Milwaukee one which can hang up on things and takes the M18 batteries.

I think if you're only busting nuts and bolts at a few hundred Newton metres chrome vanadium will be ok. It's generally the 1000Nm stuff you'd want chrome moly sockets.

Ahh yeah, you're right. My Teng ones are CR-MO I think.

Chrome Vanadium is the type of metal, not the actual finish. Although typically most sockets are then plated in a chrome finish, which adds to the confusion.