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No need for 10 and 15w50 in our climate.

Not that I know of since Maplin have gone 😏

I don't mate. You got a light on?

Haha yeah

Definitely be there this time. Be able to convoy up @Danith :D

Yeah it's definitely different to what I've seen on my 182 and others.

That's a weird setup 🤔

The big plug into the resistor pack you mean?

No issues with Powerflex here. Super Pro may do some if you're worried about Powerflex.

You say you've tried bolt/nut removers? Which type? The Irwin ones have always been good for me.

You fitting it?

Never know when you're being serious 😂

The way the shifter is as standard it's too far forward. To get the right distance for your legs if you're tall, means the shifter will be too far in 1st, 3rd and 5th gears. Moving seat forward means your knees would be up to the steering wheel 😂

Have a look at @Tomotek thread.

Yes there is are two pumps, one for screen washers and one for headlights. It could be the pump or a previous owner has disconnected them. The headlights have to be on for them to activate too.

I'd imagine so. If not ring Demon and they'll next day one.

Get the MOMO one, there's no branding on them anyway so your OCD of them being the same will be ok 😂 Mine is MOMO boss with OMP wheel too.

It'll bring the esp light up too because the steering angle sensor won't be moving inline with the wheel.

It was a bit of a joke ;) A side or rear impact could cause the seat to break away, a head on front impact you aren't technically attached to the seat rather the individual mounting points of the harness. Have seen loads of crashes where the seat has failed.

It's what I use on mine

Typically leave it for 5-10 minutes. Don't let it dry.

It's not a gimmick, it's thioglycolic acid that's oxidising the iron, it turns red/purple when it does this. It's citric acid and ammonia, that's also why the stuff stinks!

That WD40 stuff won't touch baked on brake dust. Trust me, IronX or Bilt Hamber Autowheel. A decent ceramic coating on the wheels helps, but I've found the heat soon kills the coating even though they are high temp compatible.

What did I say 😉

The seat only holds you in place anyway, the harnesses are the bit that restrain you in a crash 😉

The standard knock sensor is a single wire type iirc.

It did look to be in the 12's from what I could tell with it flickering.

Have you got a print out of your graph with an afr graph too?

Aye I knew about the afr numbers. At 14ish which is stoich, you wouldn't want to be at that all the time as you wouldn't make power. Ideal for idle though. Mine is in the 12's at mid to high rpm, also dyno'd at efi.

Yeah he knows his stuff, just sounded high.