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No spacer, it does contact the seal. That's why they need replacing to do a proper job.

If you have told the system that it's no longer there you need to then unplug the wiring, otherwise it's basically seeing a foreign object that shouldn't be there and bring the lights back on.

You can't clear the faults without repairing the problem, it'll just come back. You either need to sort the issue with the wiring or reprogram the airbag system to tell it it doesn't have certain things. It's been a while since I've used Clip 😂

Have you fixed the fault or are you trying to reprogram it to ignore certain airbags? I can clear them with RSTuner if needed. I'm in Warrington.

Hole in the gearbox I'd say.

Swisstrax looks good but I bet it's pricey.

Sounds like it's been off at some point. Ideally you need to measure the rack under the boots and get it equal both sides and then unlink the column and align the wheel straight again.

Equal amount of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock?

Coolant temp sensor I'd say. Niall's was rough from cold too and that cured it.

Is this being built for Tom?

It doesn't get cold enough to warrant using 0w-40 over here. Be better to use 5w-40 or 10w-40 on worn out higher mileage engines to keep the oil pressure up on cold start.

Can you see this? Might do a bit of both at CSF.

I should be there this time yeah. Do you want the whole pdf manual?

Just noticed that one says PF6 above it, might need this one...

It's more than likely dead. There's probably some corrosion on the leads or coilpack itself. This will cause some high resistance and current always takes the path of least resistance.

It's basically drilling a hole from the round end bit where the ph1 reg would go, into where it's blanked off for no.1 injector. We had to do it years ago at Fred's when Niall's brother's Ph1 rail got damaged.

Can't remember if it makes a difference, it might just be that you get a minus reading of the same number.

Not sure if it makes a difference but did you try it with the probes either way round, like black to battery and red to the lead and vice versa.

Don't forget to put the red probe in the mA port when testing for that range ;)

There will be some drain, but it will be in the mA range. Your meter looks a decent one so it shouldn't have a problem reading the lowest of readings.

No i can't see that being the case either :unsure: Could you test one on another car?

Yeah looks right. You're getting no reading at all? Daft question but is the positive lead still connected on the battery :ROFLMAO:

Do you have the probes in the correct comm ports on the meter?

Have you got the meter on the correct amps setting? Should be Amps direct current.

If it's idling fine then it might be difficult to tell but it's worth a go.

Unplugging the power to the injector won't be a problem, safety wise.

P0300 is random cylinder misfire. It'll be one of the other injectors but it's not telling you which one 😂 When it's idling, unplug each connector one by one to see which one doesn't make a difference.

Yes because Cups don't have ESP.

https://renparts.co.uk/store/home/186-renault-clio-mk2-phase-2-off-side-rear-drivers-rear-tail-light-lens-lamp-campus.html