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Brake cleaner.

It's essential to even get the thing idling without the workaround.

Take it to Oulton Park when a track day is on and get them to test it for you. I did it a few years ago before i started tracking mine.

I've got the Laser version of the Sealey and for some reason I find it gets more air out and faster too by pumping the pedal at the same time. Not sure why tbh as you say it shouldn't need it.

Yeah works well. Same as the 3M kit.

Same with most things I suppose.

I bet the gearbox takes more of a hammering than the clutch tbh.

Was going to say stick with Valeo if it's standard power. What did the cup racers use, was it Sachs?

What power is it, standard?

Too old for you mate. ?

Try Gyeon Wetcoat mate. This is on my sister's Volvo

If it's going to shear when undoing, then doing it with the gun or by hand makes no difference it'll still shear. Tightening is a different story.

Just as accurate as laser alignment, it's all in the setup.

I'd imagine you download it and stick it on a usb stick and plug that into the headunit.

I like to pump the brake pedal at the same time when using my pressure bleeder. I find it gives you a firmer pedal at the end when you're done.

Stick some PTFE plumbers tape around the threads of the bleed nipples that are loose. Don't cover the small hole in the thread otherwise fluid won't bleed out.

Those Sportracs are cheap tyres not designed to withstand track use. They've got too hot and the surface has started to peel away. My brother used their Ultrac Vorti on track in his megane and they had the same outcome. They may even be remolds which is even worse.

Running out of breath at 140mph! What are these geared to? I've had 135mph indicated in my 182 in France ?

Kangarooring is the term?

Our 3 ton one has been fine for about 3 years now.

Ti shims work really well, you can get a small sheet of grade 5 0.5mm or 0.8mm off eBay for a decent price.

Looks like it could be rubbing on the bumper brackets to me.

6507

As I said in your other thread. The tensioner should always be changed when doing the belts. If that goes it'll send the aux belt into the cambelt and bye bye engine.

The spring isn't sitting straight, it's bent slightly. Quite a common failure.

f**k! That is bad practice

What happened?

They didn't change the tensioner when they did the belts?

Get them to check the timing too for peace of mind.

The standard Bathe stuff is really nice to use ?