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Top tip: make sure the metal retaining bracket that bolts the boot to the box is fitted the correct way round, otherwise your new gearbox oil will drain out quicker than you can top it up 🙈, and you’ll have to dismantle everything and put it all back together again :laughing:. Glad I...

I noticed a wobbling when rocking the wheel @ 3&9 o’clock (nothing vertically), then when I disconnected the track rod end I could feel play when pushing the tie rod in & out. Hope that makes sense!

Yes, which is partly why I went for them. They can’t all be guff :wink:.

Because the non-discounted price of the GSF part was £28 I was trying to kid myself that it was a decent part. Naive of course, when they’re really only £11 :smile:. I’ll go RPD, it does come with all bells and whistles :up: Now can we delete this thread before everyone else buys up the RPD...

The response I was after, and by the chap I wanted an answer from :wink: (no disrespect to anyone else 😅). Many thanks :up:.

It’s this stuff.....

I’m tackling the near side driveshaft and replacing with a J&R which I’ve already purchased. Because of the ‘horror’ stories I’ve read about them not being fit for purpose I’m worried about having to redo the whole thing and end up losing the oil again. I happen to have some mineral gearbox oil...

Looking at my options for new inner track rods. RPD have a sale for the genuine item at a tad over £25 each side (plus postage, c.netfree only valid over £60), which I think is a good price & I was happy to go with until I got my usual 60% off voucher at GSF. Any experience or views on this...

I'm not sure that's true, I think you need to take it for a drive! Mine's a 172 retrofit, and I sat on my driveway pressing all the buttons hoping something would happen......then I test drove it.

Ahhh, gotcha! I only posted that to show there was some tolerance in the resistances. Sorry to confuse :grimacing:. I did my wiring based on that diagram and it worked a treat though.

I think they did? I thought each of the original cruise buttons has one of those resistances integrated :up:.

Like this......

Hmmmm, I assumed @Louis was using a single appropriate resistor based on his diagram, for example a straight 900 ohm resistor for the resume button....?

Also, have you got a multimeter to check the resistances are as expected when you press the buttons, this is what I’d check first.... I got mine 100ohm resistor from Maplins, it took them 3 attempts to get it right, they kept giving me 10ohm (no wonder they folded 🙈).

And did you follow this guide? https://www.cliosport.net/threads/how-to-create-a-cruise-control-loom-for-after-market-steering-wheels.767867/

Nothing works, none of the buttons?

I agree with Chris_Beer, when I refitted my wiper mechanism incorrectly & missed the 'infamous' peg, the wiper arm (the one scuffed in your picture) actually fouled on the windscreen, which is quite different to the issue you seem to have.

And as long as it can’t touch either of the spade connector contacts! Although that’ll probably just make the horn beep constantly :confused::smile:.

As long as the spring can’t touch the wheel then there’s no chance of it shorting, it’s why I put insulating tape at the bottom of my button, belt and braces and all that! If you’re really worried you could wrap tape around the spring windings itself :smirk:. I presume the Sparco horn has the...

On my OMP wheel, I cut off part of the spring clip just as you suggested, it ensures it doesn’t short to the wheel. I even insulated parts of the spring on the inside of the horn mechanism where I thought there could’ve been a further risk of shorting (overkill for sure 🙈, but the OMP one...

I knows :wink:. I’ve made my own set of buttons with appropriate resistances based on your guide I believe :cool:, so thank you :up:. I’m gonna mount them in the panel alongside the esp/cruise/dimmer switches.

It’s so obvious now, but I swear I had loom dyslexia all day :weary:🙈

Lol! That’s funny if you’re kidding, and even funnier if you’re not :laughing:! Anyhow, if anyone in the future finds this thread because they need the info, I’m gonna look like a hero :tonguewink::smile:.

For anyone who’s interested (apart from me :grinning:), the two cruise wires from the ecu terminate at the same plug as the steering wheel airbag wires. So I tapped into these (purple and black) and have successfully got cruise working without changing the squib :up::cool:.

Just reviving this thread now I’ve made more progress.....I have everything sorted including clutch switch, replacement esp/cruise/limiter on/off panel, and I’ve got the dash is displaying cruise “set speed” etc. I’ve wired up 4 buttons with the appropriate resistances to control speed...

@Gandi69, why did you need to change your shaft (:tonguewink:) in the first place?

I hope 😅

^ IKR 😢:smile:

I’m still to do my J&R nearside shaft, and this is making me apprehensive :grimacing:🙈. The offside one has been on for about 200 miles now and has been trouble free so far.

Is it possible to transfer the old rubber balancer to the new shaft, or does each shaft need a specific weight and/or positioned balancer?