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Hi i have a 52 reg clio 172 cup and i need the outer cv joint replacing as its clicking, have managed to get a new one from euro car parts but the one that comes off the old shaft is different. Ive read a few threads on here and people seem to think that you have to replace the whole shaft, is...

im another washington person fancy a mini meet so i can decide if i want one

172 cup

are eibachs the better option?

yes +1 for pics on a cup

Ive had a look on both kam racing and ktec at the eibach sportlines but kam racing quote a 45-50mm drop and k tec quote a 30mm drop can anyone shed any light on this for me? Also has anyone heard any reports about ktecs own branded lowering springs?

definatly sounds like an engine mount, just because it "sounds" like its coming from the nsf doesnt mean it definatly is the sound may be vibarting up through something else..

fitted new throtttle body today and it seems so far my problem has all but gone, still a little lumpy on idle but as far as im aware this is common on 172's ive yet to drive it from stone cold so fingers crossed itll still be good

as far as im aware the beeeeeeeeeeeeep is to tell you something isnt shut properly, double check the sensor on the bonnet and give it a wipe clean, i think the standard alarms on the clios are very primative and can easily be fooled

try cleaning the tdc sensor (crank sensor) Ive been having similar issues, do the ph2 172's with drive by wire throttle body have a seperate idle control valve? or is it built in to the throttle body?

whats peoples thought son the cat? do they normally break on 172's the cars on 55000 miles

ive just ordered a new throttle body today ill get there in the end

cleaned tdc sensor, changed plugs leads and coil pack but still no joy

any ideas??

yea ive done mine today, the old plugs i took out were goosed but even putting new ones in didnt help. taking the inlet off is eay just make sure you cover the inlets up so no bolts fall down

tbh the dealer should have done the clutch at the same time, take it back

could be an input shaft bearing on the gear box or cv joint, if its a wheel bearing you shoul hear it all the time

step backwards hows that?

Ive done a search before anyone asks but have found nothing to help me I have a clio 172 cup and heres the problem When i bought the car it had quite a lumpy idle, it was due a cambelt change so i took it to a reputable company who have all the correct locking tools etc, they informed me that...

I have a 172 cup that currently runs fly by wire throttle body as most do, how much work is involved in converting it to cable operated? I have the ph1 throttle body and ph 1 inlet manifold as far as im aware all i need now is the pedal and the cable itself? any more info?

yea im thinking about it. see if i can get a passenger to come along for the day out.

im from washington :)

I joined a couple of weeks ago after buying a 172 cup only just got round to taking some pictures after a quick wash and detail. Picture quality isnt the best but you get the idea. Have a whole list of plans so watch this space

I only got rid of the civic as I got laid off from work, I was taken back on a week after selling the civic tho, but i thought id go back to french hatches as previously id had 106's and saxos and loved them also meant i had money left over to pay my insurance off and do a few bits to the clio...

ok thanks for that, ill just let it warm up a bit more next time, just seemed weird, as said my civic type r was warmed up after about 15 minutes and that reved to 8200rpm

The car had been running for at least 15 minutes prior to giving it some beans. I had a civic type r before this and vtec wouldnt engage untill the oil was up to temp so im used to having to let the car warm up

I have 52 reg clio 172 cup. Sometimes the car will rev quite happily all the way to 7200rpm and then sometimes it hits the limiter at 6950rpm. It never miss fires or anything it just seems to hit the limiter allot earlier. Any thoughts would be appreciated as im rather baffled at the minute.

ive just bought my car (172 cup) its on 55,000 miles on a 52 plate and as far as im aware its never had a belt changed, ive booked it in straight away for next wednesday, everytime i drive it i think its going to give up

550bhp is easily achieved, it says forged accord 2.4 engine but what it will be is a k20 ctr head with a 2.4 forged bottom end. you can see 300+bhp n/a with a 2.4 set up, its not advertised on any of the well known civic websites atm tho so id want to know alot more before spunking 28k on a...