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Did you make a note of the part number by any chance?

Thanks. How does one ensure they get the correct rack?

Can anyone confirm how much slower (if at all) the DCI rack is than standard cup rack?

I torqued them up with a big tub of mtfu. My second option was to get someone to press the brake pedal for me. :P

That's irrelevant if none of them are rated for towing. Even if they were, its not an insurmountable problem.

AFAIK, neither are rated and thus neither can tow legally. Why do you say one can and the other can't?

What is that trick? Can it be used on both sides? Thinking back, it was only the nearside rear that broke. That had a thin cut out above it, that I managed to get a screwdriver in to lever against the nut. I could be wrong, but it didn't look like you'd fit a spanner in there?

Re: Wtf is going on here ! I have no idea, but I would have thought you'd know about it if there had been contact. Check compression - if its all good and you were happy with the power it was making before, just carry on :) I'm no expert, though!

Re: Wtf is going on here ! I'd hazard a guess that the crank pulley slipped slightly (or perhaps the crank wasn't locked last time) Either way, be sure to use a new crank bolt when refitting. Some people have even used the Megane keyed pulley, I think.

That's not a bad idea to take some of the pain out of it, I suppose. I was hoping there was some way to hold the nut again :/

I have Plex on my phone which streams my media from home. Phone sits in a Windscreen mount and audio comes out of speakers via Bluetooth. I quite often watch TV shows/Movies when I'm left waiting somewhere.

Mine have broken free on both sides, and I remember it being an absolute pain to hold them through the small holes while undoing/doing up the subframe bolts. Has anyone else found a solution to this - I may need to pull the box out again soon, and would like to address it to make things easier...

There must be plenty around. I only took my old gearbox to the scrap yard the other day, after it cluttering the garden for 3 years and two house moves!

Like Chip, I've had some many different cars, I don't find myself getting used to a car any more - they are all just different. I drive a C270 day to day and the Clio just feels like the Clio when I get in it, and the Merc just feels like the Merc when I then get back in that. The kind of...

If you're using unblockus, swap your DNS servers around. I had an issue the other day where the primary one was causing issues.

Fair enough. I guess we are all different drivers with different sensitivities to these things. Perhaps I still find myself comparing it to when I first got the car - cheap motorfactor pads, crap discs and old fluid where I'd literally lose the pedal after 2 miles of hard driving. By...

Are you driving with the brakes on? It took a good 20 minutes and brands before any discernible loss of brake performance and even then, we are only talking about having to brake a couple of metres earlier.

What pads do you have to get fade after two miles? :o

I'm planning on ditching the aircon, but only because the pump is knocking with the pulley clutch engaged. I just didn't know if the actual alternator from an aircon car would work with the brackets described in this thread.

I've read most of this thread, but a few things are still a little unclear... How much slower is the DCI rack than the standard one? If it's slower, Did anyone ever find a rack that was just as quick? How have people gotten on with looped PAS racks? What is required to loop the rack and can...

His willingness to test it, despite our disagreements in 'that' thread filled me with confidence. I've never bought an engine before, but I have had friends buy duds on plenty of occasions. After looking around at prices, his seems priced well.

Jokes. Where's the roll eyes smiley? ;)

Indeed. If I buy an engine, my old one will either go to the scrap yard or I may perhaps pull it apart to get a better understanding of the f4r. If I build something, it'll be on a reasonably good engine, but if I'm honest, I'm kind of leaning towards finding a good engine, chucking some ARP...

I may have a full 172/182 interior soon. 172 cup front and rear seats, 182 front and rear cards. Feel free to PM with an offer.

How do these compare to r888s if they are even comparable?

To be honest, I have little interest in building for more power (with the exception of maybe some cams while the belts were off), I just want a reliable engine that works as it should! I assume ARP rod bolts are pretty easy to fit? I see ARP provide stretch and simple torque methods? I assume...

So have you guys built F4Rs? I know this sounds like a good idea, but I'm concerned about the practicalities of a DIY engine build that needs to be reliable.

As the others have said - there is no chance without the gearbox fitted - I didn't really consider this when I asked for one. FWIW, on the starter, the pin is a permanent live, the spade connector activates the solenoid with 12v. I shall drop you a PM when I get home.

I'm currently sat on 165k miles and using a lot of oil. I'm going to start looking at an engine refresh this year, however, I'm unsure of the best way to proceed. I guess there are a few options; 1. Rebuild current engine, hope crank/bores are in good condition or risk having the car...

I need to read lots first :P