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Ive got a 1.8 16v F7P From a Clio Cup race car---£400 These were 150bhp from Renaultsport. Only done about 500 miles sincs its was rebuilt 2 years ago. Also got looms/ecu's/rads/most other parts you'd need for a conversion.

timing disc and a dti to fully plot versus crank angle. or with a micrometer measure the overall height of the lobe, and subtract the base-circle diamter....this will give you peak cam lift.

10hp from increased Cr maybe, but if you build it properly you will see more. Its worth it for piece of mind alone really...no?

honestly, you cant be tight on some stuff, and building an engine is one of the best examples. I'd have a measure up, get he block decked (just marginally) to tighten up squish clearance. also gives you a nice fresh working surface....nothing more satisfying than building a nice,fresh, clean...

Stop skimping, buy new shells for a start! The block needs honing, yes... Yes, the crank needs to come out. You want it totally stripped.

im not saying they wouldnt be fine, what i mean is if someone had a '421 blank on a previous engine, which somehow got damaged (the camshaft), then you can send them back to the factory and they will touch them up/re-profile them. so really what im saying is, you need to make sure it is...

have a measure up? maybe the '421 was originally slightly damaged, and was then re-profiled to '428 profile?

more an annoyance i guess...

With higher duration cams giving more valve overlap, this can cause oil to leak past the valve stem oil seals on overrun since theres more depression in the intake port (due to the extra overlap).

Pitot tube and velocity gauge FTW!!! Even then, the only way to develope a head properly is using an engine dyno. A flow bench is great for velocity probing and checkin cfm figures, but it offers no real parallel to a running engine...flow into infinite volume, static valve position etc etc...

About 16%.. With Jenvey 45mm parallel you see about 20% on an F7R. Would be nice to do some proper controlled tests back to back, would a be alot fairer comparison.

Have you got any before and after runs from Ronnees with these on? Would be nice to see kinda how they compare to jenvey.

If you search the web, there is a pdf with 90% of the boxes on there, with all ratios and final drives etc. unfortunatley i dont have a link to it.

I just sold an Avanti close-ratio box that would have been ideal for you. The actual ratio's will depend on the code suffix.. There are various final drive and gear ratio combinations...depending on the suffix. Unfortunately Renault being Renault they didnt just make ONE gearbox for a 1.2...

P=(2*Pi*N/60)*T You should be dividing the 2*Pi*N by 60, as this is getting from RPM into angular velocity. Its essentially the same: Power= Torque x Speed

A "nice" figure would be around 200lb. depends alot on where it is and over what rpm range.

Power=torquexspeed anyhting with 5252 in it is just american!

You can go to so many levels with something like this! Power is rate of work done, torque is the ammount of work done. So the logical answer is "theres a comprimise". Torque provides basically forward motion, more of it results in higher acceleration. The best analogy is a diesel versus...

Should be pretty smooth mate, i wouldnt risk it...

13.3:1 isnt THAT high, for a cam duration of say 300deg it would bring the effective/dynamic compression down a far chunk...and its this value that matters more than static figures. I personally WOULD fit forged pistons, they are definately worth it....

13.3:1 isnt massive on the scheme of things, but considering your cams are relatively low duration, I would be tempted to stick with the 12.5:1 pistons. reason being you can over-comprees an engine, and the resulting "negative work" will sap power. you will likely find you will have to knock a...

http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en&q=tamworth+motor+factors&meta= ;)

local motor factors?

the software is limited to dealers, so you have to pay the price off the dealer for every lil tweak. you may be able to pick up a hooky copy if you search about...i will ask a mate of mine, i think he has a copy.

Ive tried this before, what I found was you need to fill such a gap it took days and days to go off completely. work fine when cured, not noticeable vibration. just make sure u clean out all the fluid properly and chemically clean it. the vicous fluid f**king stinks aswell, so pierce it...

same fitment, yes. some places list a different part number, but ive yet to find a difference!

drop the subframe on the passenger side, bring it out that way. you'll need to undo the steering column pinch bolt aswell as all the other obvious s**t in the way. as above the captive bolts are prone to becoming un-captive! spray them with duck oil the day before. otherwise its grinder time!

im 99% sure that if you use a valver jb3 box with the mk1 top mount, it will fit. suck it and see...!

its just two rose-joints and some threaded bar...

alot of the mk1 lads run rose-jointed stabiliser, without problems. It allows more precise gear shift. It technically isnt a mount, as the name describes it stabilises the engine. So it doesnt necessarily stress the mounts.