Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
I think this might help with that.
Also if there is a gap between the rubber and the metal try getting a g clamp on it and clamp it up to close the metal bits together and eliminate the gap, just an idea, not tried it yet..
try the top one again. I tried it before but didnt make any difference. Just went out this evening and tried again and managed to move the mount about 5mm i think and the improvement is huge.
Although mine was really bad and knocking on idle.
There is no way I am fitting one of the uprated mounts. Not unless i do the rest as it will effect the other mounts I am sure. I do have a new standard dogbone though, so will fit it tomorrow.
I was wondering how you crow barred the engine forward? My air con pipes are in the way and I think I...
Ben if you see this, thankyou!
I have now fixed my thrid rattle, well 80% fixed it, I am still getting a small amount of vibration on right hand bends, but I think it's because I only pulled the engine forward by hand.
I can't find a leverage point behind the mount, any ideas? I might try...
I am about to start stripping the engine bay apart again to check all the engine mounts. Also want to look at sorting my heatshield out too as there is not alot of clearance.
Anyone know where all the fixing points are?
You should be ok like fred said still drain the system. The coolant will have a slightly different composition than the windscreen washer fluid. Although as they are both water based there shouldnt be any immediate problems.
I am thinking I may have a similar issue. The revs take a while to drop off and once in a while when i start the car the revs climb to 3000rpm and keep climbing....
I'll check brake vacuum line and then might pull off the scuttle panel.
Bump for matey. Also thanks for all the info I am near to installing this completely now.
Got all the wires through the bulkhead. just got to splice into ecu now.
where is the ABS computer?:S
I think the problem would be that the intercooler would cause the engine to struggle to breath due to the pressure drop.
Nitros oxide would be your best bet.
I need a big one for the turbo, something similar to the viper which is closed so I can put the inlet away from the engine heat.
At the moment I have a huge green cone filter sitting next to the engine sucking in all the hot air which cant be too good.
I am also looking at airboxes off...
Is there much space there?
this pic got me thinking...
I think that is under the rhs?
I need to find space for my datalogger and the engine bay is very cramped at the moment.
A reply to the original poster. 250bhp is easily achieved. I have had forged pistons and rods and plan on building a water spray system to cool inlet temperatures.
Then with a remap and little more boost 300bhp is achievable, but not for 6k. My engine rebuild was 3.5k so you would need to...
If you have access to a hydraulic press then you can do it yourself, the only hard bit is removing the bearing.
Or you can buy a set for about 150 with bearings and the abs ring already fitted. I could probably fit these in about half hour now and I am no expert!
If it was all about the money I would have never spent what I have on my 182. If you really want to do it and are prepared to say good bye to alot of money then do it.lol.
I would pick a different car though.
standard discs and ferodo ds2500 pads are the best combo i have ever had.
I now have bremo max discs and ferodo pads and they arent brilliant unless warm.
Ferodo pads are about 100 quid a set.