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Glad you found the problem.

In this case you will be doing this to determine what was going on, you cant go off what someone says on the net, is the car lowered? Maybe the shaft came out and went back in, excessive movement on the engine won't help either, I'd be pulling the n/s shaft out to check that and the diff circlip...

Needle bearings on driveshaft maybe?

Why did you not keep your standard clutch? Mine managed just fine with similar figures.

Thats exactly what I did, bolt on kit 222hp ran it for a year or two, built a low comp lump during that period. 300 is doable with forged pistons/rods and aftermarket management, unsure if the megane turbo is good for that efficiently I guess so.

Yes very safe with a decent map, standard clutch is fine to.

Wire brush, clean and VHT silver paint

What you have removed may be needed, hi boost clios suffer fuel starvation when cornering, more so on track though.

Well done mate, long time coming! I know how that feels.....

1949 Morris minor, push rods, jrwb your showing your age. did you write to euro car parts?

You would no about a wheel bearing failure due to noise, sounds a lot to me.

Which wheel bearings are being replaced?

Oil pump chain probably.

I have a lpt kit for sale in the sales section.

Should have been like that from the factory, looks awesome.

As above your better off making one up from the like of http://www.autosiliconehoses.com http://www.viperperformance.co.uk main dealer boost pipes are horrifically priced.

Speed sensor in the box.

That's terrible customers service if he is still trading as a business, surely it's getting close to legal involvement?

This forum is screaming out for a "like" button I'd press it for this comment. Steve.m seriously you come across as a complete to$$er, you really do.

That's because your shines new eobd reader is looking for the missing half of your engine, basically bank 2 would be the second bank of a v6/v8/v10/v12 engine, you need to be looking at bank 1 sensor 1 or bank 1 sensor 2

Turn it over with cover off that I mentioned, I have had a pug 206 that sheared the teeth off the belt around the crank pulley. 90k without a belt change though, doesn't sound promising.

In 4th a 7k rpm? Mmmmm ok

This made me think cambelt, plus the fact you said it cut out? It's not going to cut out if the starter has failed, have you tried smacking the starter with a hammer while someone turns the ignition? Could be an ignition switch issue.

I'd imagine so, it's really not worth repairing if it is a belt failure.

Cambelt snapped? Black plastic cover 2x 10mm bolts and slide the cover upwards, check if the belts tight/still there.

Looks awesome, what power are you hoping for?

It's a internally clamped gaitor, you will be fitting a externally clamped one, it fouls on the engine block.

New shaft time.

Because turbo, it's a dump valve innit Bruv.

As said, worth at least double the £17, all catalytic converters have precious metals in them.