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shiiiiiiiiit that sucks! only a girl would attack a car instead of bringing it to you, i hope they get caught mate.
also - selling wheels and exhaust? lol
iv done mine clancy, the only bits you can do with bulbs are the clock and unless you have digital climate control, the heater controls. everything else is SMD (LED) and requires a fair bit of taking apart and soldering
'sigh' (gets ready for stick but thinks screw you i like it) this is fly eyes - http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?529370-a-guide-to-tinting-lights-with-tint-spray&highlight=
scroll down a bit for pics
the coilpacks are often suspect is it genuine renault that you replaced it with? dont know if it matters with the clios but vag aftermarket coilys are poo and only last a few weeks.
also does it go alright under acceleration? not just a tickover fault no?
probably weighs more, and yes you can, in my LCR i had some crappy fly active that was 'fitted' with a cargo net thing to the cargo hoops, was never a problem and took only seconds to remove on track days/when needing the full boot.
im not saying this is what should be done but pointing out...
as said mate i didnt cut anything, just unbolt the seatbelt clips from the seat and you can feed them through the seat with the wires still attached, i dont imagine cutting and rejoining them will do any harm but you dont have to cut.
yours is a cup ye? mines is and there are no airbag lights...
i had 17s on mine when i first bought her, lowered on racelands too, dont know how much by but it was practically undriveable previous owner must have been a right muppet, id estimate about 70mm low, raised up the front something like 20mm (cant raise the back as the p[revious removed the...
an active sub can be the easier cheaper option, but i think sound purists would say get seperate sub and amp, plus as said you can then link in future.
for general use though theres nout wrong with an active sub, your shiny new kenwood, uprated components, and an active sub would sound pretty...
similar fix on mine, 8mm steel, seat bolted to original runners, bit of a pussy though as the runners are differebt heights lol! so metal spacers used too and im gonna lower the central runners (plastic spacer can be cut) once all this snow is away.
as for the seat belt, i bought a set of old...
genuine question, does the cup not only come in blue and doesnt have air con? or have i missed something?
this might seem off topic but might be relevant to the OP, when i was looking for my first cup loads were advertised as a cup but actually just had the cup packs, so werent lighter
manual tensioner no? it is on my cup anyway, id do the belt they cost fa from the factors anyway and worth doing whilst your at it, i cant think of anything else you might need
just buy what you need clancy, kenwood stuff is fine, and 1 pre out is all your likely to need unless your about to spend loads of money on 3 amps and wiring then maybe a capicitor so you dont flat your battery and defo expensive components etc etc, that kenwood looks fine bud