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I used my angle grinder key as well - the manual is a bit unclear, I'm sure it calls for torquing up the aux pulley BEFORE this rotation step...

You know it's a load of BS when their own website won't make any reference to what or how it works... If it was a genuine product they'd give you some more info and have patented the method! I love their claim: "TerraClean is a technology developed by a group of scientists in Canada. They were...

I'd just bung a pair of 5mm spacers on.

Not ideal with 35mm - that's the same size as WRC, and even with their mega resources they "only" manage ~300hp.

This sounds like one of those times where you have two choices: 1) Make something work, despite not really being designed for it, probably for free 2) Buy something which will work perfectly The need to be able to access from a phone makes it much more difficult - an Access database centralised...

Not sure I agree with saying they shouldn't be sold, but you should be clear on what you expect from tyres! Most folks would be happy they go round and round, don't fall apart at 80 on the motorway, and last a couple of years... We have more exacting standards, hence need to go up the tree a...

Have you tried looking at the lambda data live on odb? Sounds like there's another issue causing issues... If it's running rough it won't be the secondary lambda, that's mostly used for gentle fuel trimming, it's the first lambda that is the most important. I'm wondering if it's something odd...

Try a startup repair, or boot from last known good config from the F8 boot menu: https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/17101/windows-7-system-recovery-options If it seems like a hardware fault you could try burning a copy of Hiren's boot CD and running memtest86+ or Prime95 to stress the...

4 bolts, what a faff. :p I'd rather keep it to be honest, if only to keep the engine bay cleaner.

Glad to see some appreciation here as well, my home board is a Leopold FC660M with Cherry Browns: At work I've got a Filco with blues, also lovely!

Sounds like classic head gasket to me, how far have you let it overheat? Might have warped the head by now, making it worse.

In my experience you've got to calibrate twice in those situations - firstly in the Logitech controller software, then the game again.

The world record runs are insane, sometimes I think the edges should be made a bit harsher to stop such ridiculous cutting... It is a great example of how much grip there can be though - my routine for setting a car up is get the damping right to handle the jumps/yumps without upsetting the...

Finland in particular is quite tricky! Have you unlocked the advanced car setup? You need the separate damper rates for high and low rate compression etc to help soak up the bumps properly. It's also very much about finding a rhythm and throwing the car around a lot more than you'd think - the...

Really enjoy this game - I'm playing with a Logitech wheel and I'd say a wheel is absolutely needed for that last drop of precision... Turn the driver aids off and it's pretty brutal, I end up restarting a lot of stages because I get carried away, but always come out with a grin on my face! We...

True when buying most hot hatches from <2005 really - a lot of them have quite a lumpy idle, especially when cold. Watch out for odd ticking, but also be careful not to be dummied by injector noise - it's easy to think something is amiss when they're clacking away, even if they're fine. Most...

Haha, sounds familiar! I knew I had it right because I had the manual, but it was so tight I broke the tensioner the first time out, luckily I could re-use the old one and just replace the sprung bit...

Really? I couldn't get mine routed any other way, I was half-tempted to try when it proved such a b**ch to tension up with a new belt.

Sounds like something isn't right then - might be worth loosening it all off and trying to nudge the tensioner across slightly, if it's making a groove in the belt it needs sorting really, don't want that snapping!

It won't fit another way, the lengths are all wrong. If there's no damage to the rubber by now there's no reason to think it would suddenly change. Clearance on mine was very tight when I did mine, 20k miles later and it's still fine.

£209 must be the aux belt, surely?

Can you feel any impression with your finger? i.e. Has it worn a groove in the rubber of the belt? If not I really wouldn't worry.

What you can do is pull the power pins out of the plug, leaving the sensor operating for the climate (it's a temp sensor), but stopping the noise. I need to strip mine down and see if I can sort it, I thought it was the fuel pump at first! Really annoying.

Probably specific to the 182, as it's the only model which has the centre-exit exhaust. Chances are if you want it new, Renault will be the only place to go, very specific and probably not needed very often. That, or get someone to make you one from some steel sheet.

It's all about cost, isn't it really? Building one of these for <£14k means as little expensive machining/head as possible!

Probably needs the caliper taking off and rebuilding if it's stuck again, just greasing won't help. Are the dust boots around the pistons in good nick?

Because they're pulse-width modulated you'll struggle to pick them up on a cheapy multimeter. Best you could do would be to continuity trace the plug back to the ECU.

Exactly! Spice up an ordinary sale with a bit of comedy.

Some nice shots there mate, Silverstone can be a bit tricky to get good shots. With our seats at Copse I'm a bit annoyed I didn't bother taking my gear this year. Rivage at Spa is a great place to get some shots if you ever get chance: Ferrari F138 Spa Rivage by HarvB, on Flickr

If it runs alright just keep driving. As said the higher the compression ratio the harder it should be to turn over by hand, if it starts there's no worries. :)