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Everyone has their favorites so I'd say as long as your buying a named brand rather than cheapo rubbish then pick which ever one you want. If you fancy a 'sporty' tread pattern Toyo T1-R or Goodyear F1. If you want to maximise wet handling performance you'll probably get slightly better...

Might be easier and clearer this way - just move your name to the right list, or create a separate list if you're a 'bit different' Clio RS 2 172/182 - STANDARD Kit, happy for mass postage 1. fossie 2. Clio-Coby 8. T5PHY - payment @ end of Jan 10. Keith185 25. Warren4 26. Mostro 27...

No stated service interval I believe, but cars I have had previously seem to have benefitted. It's on my too do list as soon as it isn't so bl**dy cold. Fully Synth 75-90 is the recommended stuff - 3.1 litres IIRC.

1. fossie 2. Clio-Coby (Andy - Can't afford it until 28th Jan thoughh) 3. Topgeartom 4. Pettsi 5. Papalaz (end of Jan and 10 or more people ideally) 6. tony69 (end of Jan and 10 or more people ideally) 7. Paul_B 8. T5PHY - Again for payment @ end of Jan and 10 + willing 9. djroberts -...

Yup, normal sequence is that you pay the excess to get things started then it's repaid once the claim is settled. Have you asked you insurance for advise? It's a long shot that they will be helpful, but still worth asking the question. When everything shakes out you shouldn't be out of...

After a few threads recently on 'which is the best petrol' I thought some people might not have seen this before... http://www.thorneymotorsport.co.uk/tuning/Fuel_Test_Results_Update.shtml

A bit of light/medium strength threadlock might help. But it shouldn't really be needed so I'd try and fix the problem - try some different bolts. It could be that the tolerance on the new bolts just isn't quite right and they are just a tiny bit slack.

I'm keen to get a set of track specific tyres. Probably R888's although I'm open to suggestions. But the real question is what wheels to use and what size. I'm thinking that I can pick up a set of 15" steel wheels from the scrappy for v.little cash. And there appears to be a significant...

That's it... I'm getting one. Trouble is due to the b*llocks exchange rate it's shot up in price :mad: Oh well, can't drive the car until Feb anyway (broken leg) so perhaps the £ will have recovered a bit by then. Is there any other mod that offers approx 6bhp for under £200?

Assuming you match drivers and you're talking about standard spec in both cars I'm sure you'd see the clio, win based on superior power to weight and overall power. But there's plenty of aftermarket upgrades for MX-5s including turbos so relatively easy to create an MX-5 that will beat the...

Almost all of the 'scientific' studies conducted in the magazines and the like suggest that there is marginal difference to be had or at least if there is a benefit you have to seriously consider the performance/cost ratio. I tend to fill up with V-power (versus Morrisions, my other local)...

I've found before that you don't realise just how bad the grip in your tyres has got until you stick on a new set. I'll typically go down to the legal limit, but will be a bit more conservative during the winter when there's plenty of rain and the risk of snow. Or, go down to the legal limit...

I've had mine about 1 month and wouldn't say they made a massive difference on the road, perhaps a little stiffer. I think this is a good thing as I did the same mod on a Fiesta once and it turned the brake pedal into an on/off button! Where it's really made a difference is on the track...

I'd quite like to know as well. I believe the springs on the 172 ph2 cup are different to the FF but not sure about the dampers? Also - anyone know any comments on whether upgraded springs (Eibach) will make a difference to the cup isn't it's already slightly lowered versus the FF.

Yup, if Rentech can't remove it then I'm afraid I don't fancy your chances. Might have already been tried, but you might as well take the whole assembly off the car and have a go separating them on a bench. It should still only be 15mins for a garage to confirm that they can't separate them...

Removing the carriers is pretty much the same job as removing the caliper itself, just 2 more bolts to undo. If it's just a seize then if you are able to separate the carrier and the caliper, then a good clean up might solve your problems without needing a new part. What's probably going to...

Just a couple of quick tips from my experience changing my rear discs & pads this weekend. There's plenty of information on here to help you out and it's all good, but for those looking to undertake the job themselves I would note 2 things : 1) I had to use a g-clamp to push the piston...

Anyone had any experiences bad or good with wheel refurbishers in the Cambridge area?

Nothing wrong with the T1-S though and they are often a fair bit cheaper. Any brand name should be fine - just avoid the budget options.

Bad luck mate - not your fault. Like most are saying, it will all be on the Jag. If you think about it you're insurance company would rather take the Jag guy to court and reclaim all their costs ('cos they will win) than pay out a bean. Simple physics tells you you can't be responsible, if...

I always get a 5l bottle and that does me fine including changing the filter. I think I read somewhere that there's about 200-300ml you pretty much can't get out of the system no matter how long you leave it. 5.1 litres is the completely empty (i.e. brand new) capacity.

I've used them several times on a variety of cars and never had a problem. Cheaper than kwik-fit and they come to you! Last time I ordered some tyres they phoned to say they were an old model, would I like the new, more expensive ones for the same price? Hmm let me think...! Only complaint...

Castrol Super Dot 4 has always seen me right.

Yeah I know that, but the tank was pretty empty and I've been through most of a tank of normal unleaded now. I know that the ECU might also take some time to 'learn' about the new fuel as well. I know it's not scientific but for me, I'll be sticking to the performance brands. I'd never...

Just did mine at the weekend. Used a little less than a litre. IIRC the system holds a little over 500ml so flushing through 800ml - 1l pretty much guarantees you get a clean system.

Well I've just tried a tank of Morrisons standard having only used V-Power or Tescos 99 up to now and it 'feels' like there is a significant difference. Much more sluggish with the standard unleaded. The next thing I want to try is the RSTuner 98RON map to see if that 'feels' better than the...

OK so trying to remove my sheared off bleed nipple didn't work so I need a new caliper. Off to the scrappy tomorrow to try to find a half decent one. Please can someone confirm that the caliper from a Megane or Laguna is the same part?

Nope afraid not, different problem all together (probably!) - the knocking under hard acceleration is most likely the exhaust manifold hitting the firewall as a result of worn or broken engine mounts. Common problem if you search on these forums.

As you've probably guessed from people's responses so far it's not that easy. If you want a technical explaination on why this won't work google Hooke's Law as a starting point. There are several basic problems, shortening the damper with a standard spring is basically pre-loading the...

Yes it's painful! Replacing my brake fluid last night in preparation for Bruntingthorpe on 31st. All fine except drivers side front bleed nipple sheared off. Looks like I can get a replacement caliper from a scrappy for ~£35 but first I'm going to try and replace the bleed nipple in the...