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hope they kept the change for t and biscuits tin

get a good valver or willy with no problems and none looming and it will actually be cheaper than you think to run. They are amazingly only group 12 (anybody else find this lower than expected, considering a golf gti16v is 15, and is actually slower) and I find if i am just trundling about it is...

hmm, strange one, make sure you have not disturbed one of front exhaust joint, i.e most likely manifold to downpipe, would account for some loss of power, noise and smell, also make sure wiring is not to close to exhaust, itll prob be something like that, assuming you are convinced starter is...

yeah you must have disturbed wiring behind stereo, probably cigarette lighter wiring since it si down there, take it out and fish about

flowed head will really do justice to these cams you have, as these two together give more power totalled than some of thier individual power gains on thier own. Then get it RR and chipped, hill power good bet

tony wher you get oil cooler kit for the valver or did you buy individual components yourself

king.stromba I would put money on the play on off side steering arm is the inner joint on track control arm, and not the rod end itself (although this could be wron because of it) as it sound identical to the play I had on drivers side rod. To test put steering lock on and grab steering arm (not...

yep looks great, interesting indeed

hmm smoke coming from dipstick can be a sign of excessive crankcase pressure either caused by blocked breathers or piston ring blow past (which is usually bad) check breathers and do a compression test, then do another compression test with a little engine oil poured into spark plug hole before...

on F7 series engines close to standard, PBV are a waste of time, as ECU will back the mixture off, cause it runs closed loop and is constanly monitoring mixture, mostly through lambda. So what happens is that you end up with more pressure at injectors but ECU will cut the firing durations to...

£200 for a pad change is extracting the urine

paul1178, you have mail, picture of bit here, after removing bonnet, headlamp and maybe even slam panel and radiator. Loosen front bolt of metal plate that holds wirinf and raise it so you can get to tensioner. Photo not brilliant but you can see what to do fine, 7mm is a funny size I did not...

dont worry too much about what guage says, i dont think they are overtly accurate. You can rely on oil light as it works on different sensor, if it light you defo dont have pressure, but as long as guage read something and light stay off you have pressure. Also its amazing how different oils...

yep a load of crap, and it really pisses me off when on ebay this keeps appearing clogging the screen up, its under all the autmotive section, really annoying since its crap. There another one that full the ECU into advanceing the timing, which is really daft and is jmoreas likely to leave you...

there is no right answer as no exhaust pipe suits the whole rev range of a car, you are always looking for the best compromise, cause a certain pipe will assist scavenging (exhaust pulses tail end of low compression helps draw more mixture into combustion chamber when cam/s is on overlapping) at...

U33db, my valver used to go up to that mark occasionally, but after a top end rebuild and low temp thermostat, it now rarely even reaches half way. But since you have this thermostat it cant be that. I would take radiator out, and fluch it again. Also undo block drain plug (its at bottom of the...

Its easy, only awkward part is lifting the wiring loom up(that runs along inside inner wing) and loosening the tensioner. Lift loom out of way and using 7mm allan key loosen centre of tensioner, then turn nut to slacken. Got a few photos if it helps, just let us know

yeah these wheel nuts are crap, I have gone through about 6 since I got my valver almost three years ago, copaslip on them makes a diiference though, when it comes to loosening them

another possibility if head gasket seems ok, is oil cooler at head of oil filter, think this is an oil/water exchanger, and there could be a prob there, just a suggestion, far more likely to be head gasket

why would you want to this, just get a low temperature fan switch from bbpt and low temp thermostat if you wish to run cooler, but if its what you want. You can do it two ways. You could run wire to radiator fan switch or to the fan itself. For on fan put one to the earth and the other from a...

yeah sorry bout that, but when at work I will do anything but actual work lol, post back, worth knowing if they fit

valver front brakes are dead easy to dissassemble and put back on. Two bolt hold pad carrier on, take this off, tap pads out. Now hard bit, unudoing hose union, only because they can be solid and quite rusted. Then plug this with a matchstick or something, and undo two other bolts that hold rest...

very interesting, been thinking about doing a clio turbo, as mate has a mint 3dr 1.2 shell as a good base. But 5 turbo are like hens teeth round my bit, but there are a few possible 440 turbo donor candidates, any pics of the problem areas mate. How she go like, lively?

can be a sign that pump is on way out, but they get really, really loud before they do go. Change your fuel filter (fairly easy once you have arse oif car in up on axle stands/ramps) to prolong pump, new one is circa 100 squid

try a specialist breakers, type toyota breakers on a google uk search

check the sender/sensor connections, its is at front of engine, to the right of where dipstick enters sump, might be problem there

To shut your pump up, drain the current fluid (or at least a good bit off it) by slacking hose at front of engine, where flexi from subframe attaches to metal pipe thats attached to engine. Then get decent fluid, dextronIII anyway, get a good quality one, and fill it up (after reconnecting...

not a lot change the other mounts, but unfortunetly valver mounts are pish, love someone tolaunch uprated version of all three mounts

bottom ends are bomb proof, had the head of my own 16v engine, and low and behold, you can clearly see the original honing marks in the bore, pu there when engine was first assembled almost 10yrs and 90k ago, absolutely no ridge, quite believe these bottom ends will do millenium falcon mileage!

tonys, used the VHT paint you see it car accessory shops, the one that NASA use (according to the tin). Took manifold off, and went over it with rotary wire brush in drill. Then six sprayed coats of the VHT paint, looks good there, but it does fade a little now its been cured with engine...