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Also got a low temp thermostat from BBperftuning, highly recommended as my valver runs so much cooler now. Another recommedation is 5gtt turbo new shape heavy duty clutch, a bargain from andyspares, and although a little abrupt (on/off) feels like it will never slip, and almost a track car feel...

Better Pic of whole unit ready to go in: http://erc.qmuc.ac.uk/cliosport/gallery/full/1070386149__ENG1

female mechanic, Id love to meet her, tried to get current girl friend into working on cars but she aint into it, garage is always too cold, a rare breed, girls who wish to get oil on thier hands, shame! LOL

Rocker cover dead easy to remove (16 10mm bolts, plus leads and cover will need to be removed, then lift it up on gearbox end, and slide out from under camshaft pulleys at other side), just make sure you have a new gasket for putting it back, cause they are a pain in arse for leaking. Used...

Here are a few of engine in, engine out and stripped and engine back inhttp://erc.qmuc.ac.uk/cliosport/gallery/thumb/1070382570__LIFT1smallReady to lift out http://erc.qmuc.ac.uk/cliosport/gallery/thumb/1070382559__GASKET3small.jpgbuggered gasket (cracke from water jacket out)...

here is a couple of pics of clutch and release bearing http://erc.qmuc.ac.uk/cliosport/gallery/thumb/1070382444__CLUTCH1small http://erc.qmuc.ac.uk/cliosport/gallery/thumb/1070382195__BHOUSINGsmall Is it me or does the uploader much the resolution as am sure these pics were slightly...

will do, although they are mixed quality

It is very easy if box and engine are on a pallet. Undo all the bolts and nuts round belhousing. Do ones at starter also, but leave starter rear bracket alone (you can leave starter exactely where it is.). Then wiggle box free (might be a little stickey, make sure all bolts and nuts are undone)...

as benR says its not that difficult, keep the reciept for buying alternator, but dont get renault to fit it. its fairly easy to remove slam panel, radiator and headlamp, and you then have loads of space. 7mm allenkey to loosen center of tensioner, turn outside nut to relieve tension. Unbolt the...

hello, aint been on site for a while, my own head gasket is cracked from the water jacket and I stopped it befopre she overheated and checked it with a straight edge, but was still crapping it. The hassle with skimming valver heads are the dowels, which will have to be removed and replaced, and...

water pump surprisingly easy to change and only £23 enuine from andyspares

Yeah finally after car being off road for 5months, I put the engine back in this week and started it last night. Almost cried as noise from tappets was really bad and was panicking, but thankfully when oil thinned out they refilled (must have totally drained while head was off block) and silence...

ignore it, they are pointless as its always fairly obvious when your pads are away

anybody?

check the torque on hub nuts. I forgot to totally tighten one once, and cause driveshaft was not totally flush with hub, it caused a really weird vibration under acceleration. Just an idea, youll know youself

other possibilities are leaky sunroof or aeriel, or if car is losing water, leaking heater matrix, hopefully not though

thats true but i am lazy and it is after 5, so bit late, will in the end, but thought somebody here might have a clue, but you are probably right

I was thinking this as well, but I am not totally sure

Not sure if anybody can help me but looking at buying a spare ECU for my 16v so as to have one chipped and one standard. ECU on mine has number S101715103b, but one I am looking to buy has no. S101262105c. Wish to send one to N.Hill to be reprogrammed, so will it matter, what is the differences...

these cams probably have a really long duration and probably a big overlap between inlet and exhaust, meaning that while it will help fill the cylinders higher up the rev range, it is always going to ruin low speed running and produce a very lumpy idle. Agree in that its probably a poor choice...

yeah get shot of it, I have also lost heat sheild round my cat, which were knackered, made me eventually get rid of cat as well

bbperftuning, link at top of page, piece of piss to fit, remove hoses to housing, undo torx bolts, put new one on, and refit housing with a little instant gasket, worthwhile, I have one on mine, hope that helps

long term solution to squeking pads is to get a grinder and grind a Chamfer on the leading edge, they will not squek again, just a wee one chamfer, dont go overboard

brushes are shot mate, either get a new alternator, or find someone who will install new brushes into it, specialist, will cost you 20-30 squid, but better than new aternator price

set aside at least a whole day. Have axle stands, torx bits 20-55, a 5mm punch, plus normal tools. There is nothing too difficult to this its just futery and annoying plus fairly time consuming. Remove slam panel and radiator, header tank, drive shafts (passenger side dead easy, but drivers side...

so what is it you get for the back with coilovers, I thought you just got shocks am I wrong, anybody?

be sure and get a new gasket or it will defo be leaking on refit

of course it could just be cheesily dubbed in, in fact probably all the car noises are samples that they have just played with. Is it any good, aint seen it yet

just putting my engine back in, after taking it out for top end rebuild, so could probably help you, also have about a hundred pictures (variable quality) during removal and rebuild which are a valuble commodity when it comes to putting everything back together. If you wish I will type up how...

its a shame that thrashing from cold is bad, as my valver is far far quicker from cold. Which shows what really cold air can do if sent up the intake, with extra fuel. Anybody else notice how much quicker they are when cold. But I still avoid it, just makes me hanker after the ultimate cool air...