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probs selector rod or the zorst has moved pal

windows = ghey lol

a cambelt, is a cambelt, is a cambelt. racing cambelts are a load of s**t! same stuff!

amen brother, best mod i ever did to the valver coupled with 180lb springs!

idle control valve. clean it.

try draining a little bit of oil out, sometimes they work better wiht a little less in them on odd occasions.

change the lot is best mate, not sure if oyu can get the diff out but its just as much trouble, my advice would be to stop driving it! your doing more damage mate. if you have to drive it then dont go very far! it does sound like its the diff thats been done in but worth checking the shaft forst...

be either the shaft is broken or the diff is screwed mate. one of the lads had this problem and unfortunately is was the diff. happened to him when his box mount snappes so check the mount also maybe? just ship the shaft out the box and look if the end has busted off, if...

pmsl its the nana vid speeded up!

how do you expect a good pad not to be dusty that stops the car via friction? all good pads cause dust. just paint your wheels black or clean them religiously! (my wheels were painted black so i dont car lol)

they are spot on imo the pagids

i use adium. its the future! for windows use Gaim. steady as a rock ;)

yup they do, i had a set at one time of day (got bored and sold them now i want willy wheels again lol) bayliss has a set on the track car too

make sure you turn the coil pack upside down too or it will foul the strut brace path ;) simply unbolt it and turn it 180 degrees :)

no cos why would that cause the engine to cut out in the 1st place? seems to me that it might be coincidence and unfotunately the cambelt MAY have gone as the starter is whizzing over. when they belts bust it doesnt necessarily make a huge amount of nois on the 8v's

shhhh dont swear like that! get an xbox to play games on if you love microsoft ;)

best solution do what i did. buy a mac ;)

unless your names bayliss, its about a 4 hour job with multiple tea breaks!!!

why would the motor not engage if you've not touched it? have you checked the plugs are sparking? checked the leads?

correct. if your gonna re-use a loom use your own current one.

best thing to do instead of messing around is get a complete williams engine, loom and ecu and drop it straight in if your gonna do it. there's on on williamsclio going for £400 for the engine. you can use the 16v loom but its juts easier if its all attached ready to go.

williams one will just plugh and play yes. for a proper re-map at somewhere like hillpower of chipwizards ect your looking at circa £300+ but will see the best gained out the engine

well they do anything to shift the blame so if i were you i'd swap it back for the sake of them saying no!

Bayliss posh???? Common as muck (proper northener) just the way it should be. he's just got too much money!

bayliss is ugly, thats why he had to buy the vee so girls would come near him. he has a porkchop round his neck so the dog will play with him :P nah he's a good boy really. jealous gimps always take it to heart!

if he has changed the clutch cable recently i'm thinking maybe its routed wrong. so long as there is a good serge of oil pressure from a stand still when you blip the throttle on tickover it'll be fine

oops

rear arch rust, sill rust, door rust, bootlid rust (wiper and drainage holes) leaky sunroof, mayo in oil cap. oil pressure reading on car, gearstick movement on let off of accelerator (worn rear engine mount) any knocks bangs ect, waggle steering when driving to check for play in the column...

check the engine mounts, if these are knackered then thats your problem. check your oil levels ect too. if the oil is low its likeley that your engine is knocking and could be about to go bang. check the mounts first though

might be the switch. that was the problem with mine