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yup tis true...unfortunately people often want to just change the belt if they are selling the car, or if they done fully understand the severity of possible failure...no matter how much you tell them!
RE: belt, yes, i meant fitted!!
£280 inc tensioner and idler (and belt)...
lol....it isnt hard to follow a line and leave a consistant gap! "practice makes perfect"...so after a few years, you kinda pick it up.
Also for best result you should blue the joints, to get a perfect match and use RTV sealer as opposed to a gasket.
Theres also a little work to be done...
its where the engine is experiencing peak volumetric efficiency. partly to do with what Gordon has said, also there is always going to be a range of engine speeds, where piston speed versus gas speed cause optimum cylinder filling.
what engine? a 1.2?!
unless you can plumb it in yourself, and carry out full calibration (I take it this also needs doing?), then you are going to be talking heavy coinage to get it done PROPERLY.
if the engine is in the car, just get it on a chassis dyno.
14.7:1 is the theoretical right answer for part load only.
For full power and load you should expect an AFR of 12.5-13:1 on NA.
Cruising you could be running 15:1 for economy.
Im on about between teh top and bottom sections sorry.
But yes, the bottom-head section is pretty easily sighted by eye like u said.
Its more important to get that one right, but by marking the top, you know its all pretty spot on.
H.G by the sounds of it.
Compression test can be misleading, as it only takes a slight failure to leak in the chamber...but due to the very nature of the piston motion this may not show up as a measurable loss in compression, since the piston moves so fast.
Best to do a leak down test, or...
lol.... ahhhh the metropolis of Ystradgynlais!!
as CJ says, couple of local pubs and cafes nearby, and town (Swansea) is about 12 miles away, tho not advisable by bus!!