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LOL @ Nicole Read, Fred, or should I say Frederica you gonna get a slap next time sucker! Anyway, Mr Chav is spot on. It needs a bit of running in but my high boost valver (holds at around 15/16psi) runs an estimated 250bhp/250lbft. The more important thing is that its FQ - as in Evo FQ300...

http://erc.qmuc.ac.uk/Cliosport/Gallery/Full/1065469516__cliomaxipost9501.jpgOne other thing, I have got a scan of a Maxi schematic. It came from Renault Sport poster of the time. Sam Steffenson in Sweden used to have them for sale, poster size, but as far as I can tell theyve gone under. I...

Trust Ben to be the Clio nerd...nice one mate. The one everyone remembers the most is the Ragnotti car, the silver Maxi in the Diac livery. In fact Ive got a small scale model of it and a Tamiya radio control version as well. Wicked.

Cant remember exactly cos mines at the paint shop at the moment. But something around 65mm I think. Have you got the airbox and car outside right now? If so, just go and measure the diameters? If youre looking for an easy solution, Halfords only go up to 60mm alu pipe whihc is too small, and B&Q...

I think its the actual mesh itself that is wrong, not the look. Obviously looks the part on the S1600. A proper job done with stainless woven wire would be a lot better.

1.8 - well actually 1764cc, 4 cylinder, 16v, engine code F7P. Valvers never had 2.0 engines, any that do are either using a Megane or Williams 2.0 16v (F7R) lumps. Or possibly a modified 1.8 bottom end with a very slightly bigger bore and a longer stroke by using a different crank.

Shouldnt that be Renault advertising on Cliosport, not the other way round!

Louvre it instead. Or if you want a vent, then keep your eyes peeled for something different, 4x4s and people carriers sometimes have really good looking vents which are wasted on a glorified minibus. Then go to the scrappies and get one.

Didnt you have my oil gauges for a tenner Adi?

Yeah, shouldnt that be the other way round mate? Seam welding would be a lot stronger than spot welding ;)

Funny that. Every vent I can remember seeing including my own had one out of the five still attached? Probably a pig to get off, so try brute force? Sorry Ive not got the valver outside or Id go and figure it out. Well they definitely are supposed to come off, I chromed mine so I know they do.

Oil gauge problems can be a real pain in the arse cos they could happen at the senders themselves, anywhere along the wiring loom, or at the actual gauge pod. Best bet is whip the pod out and try a different one in there, get one from a scrappy.

Right on Hogan. Admittedly Im no expert on GTT engines but I cant see how youd see 300bhp for 7.5k of work on a GTT engine. Theres a reason why most sensible GTTs running decent power pack around 200bhp and quarter milers that are basically compromised as road cars, run 250bhp. 300 is...

YOu can still pick up the old GSD2 for cheap. The new GSD3 are pricy.

Well leaving the weight issue to one side for the moment, Ive driven a NA 16v and a turbo 16v (both mine) Same F7P engine but obviously the turbo one has a lot more power and torque. Now this isnt even a comparison with equal power, but as I know the characteristics of the two types of...

Or your nearest Renault scrappy?

Most people run Magnecor. I use KV85, Bens are the same. At the end of the day plugs and leads either work or they dont, there arent really any performance gains to be had, only lost through crappy gear. The standard Bougicord leads on a valver are very good leads so only worth replacing if...

Your PM box is full mate. Anyway, if you want a special Maxi bumper (its a narrowed version to fit the standard valver) ring up PSG and ask them to make you one to order - about £250 incl VAT and delivery. Or you could wait until mine arrives in the next week or so, and Ill let you know how well...

Yours are knackered then.

Ive never had head gasket problems. They dont have a reputation for breaking at all. Just that valvers in general are trickier than other cars to work on because everythings packed in so tightly.

Painted calipers are the nuts as long as you choose the right colour. The Foliatec stuff is perfect for the job and everything is included, proper brake cleaner, the right paint, everything. You could save a few quid by getting Hammerite but do you really want a hammered finish on your calipers...

If I had mine here, I would. But a valver on 17s will take a 35mm drop nicely. Itll take a 50 mm as well but it might start to rub at the front. Back will be no problem.

Dash too bad mate. You should have PMd me - I know a geezer in Leigh wholl take a complete 4 wheels worth of locking nuts off for 20 quid.

Its different. Original and not TOO jap-style. BTW Glenn Ive got a brand new Maxi bumper on the way for the front of mine mate!

LOL:devilish:

OMP offer generally the same stuff as Sparco just cheaper. Although theyre both proper motorsport firms, IMHO a street car built to look like a racer would be full of Sparco, a race car fettled to make it road legal would be full of OMP. Ive used bits of both brands and theyre both Italian, both...

Yeah Im sure you can run a valver without one, but its there because you dont want the bulkhead soaking up the heat that should be being carried away by airflow, and the brake pipes are behind there as well. Intense heat + brake fluid = bad news.

Yeah no lower than that. In fact on my old 195/50/15s I used to run around 35psi minimum cos I didnt like the way it felt wobbly at v. high speed otherwise.

Well cant say about the wheels cos all you know at the moment is that they are 16s. But the tyres- well that comes out as 12mm more diameter, not an awful lot really, only 6mm top and bottom so I cant see how they could rub the tops of the arches even if you totally slammed your Clio by like...

And the reason why I always ring the scrappy before I ring Renault!