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On a phase 1 you dont have the problem of badges on the paintwork but they are on the plastic strip instead. As far as I can remember, the Renault one is stuck on, the Clio one has two lugs behind that hold it in place, and therefore, two small holes in the plastic strip. An easy debadging can...
Just be careful when youre putting the plugs in again that you dont cross thread them. Im pretty sure Champion EON 1 are a straight swap as well. I thought the standard plugs were BCP-7ES not EV?
Well it depends where it is. If its in a really quite tricky spot like on a valver, then Id say its fair enough if they dont want to find it for you! But you could definitely ask them next time and if they wont actually find it for you, at least explain to you where it is. To get back to the...
Vicky - Im glad you understood it, cos looking back at my explanation *I* can barely make it out! Anyway, any wheel specialist worth dealing with will know what wheels will go on what cars etc. If youre going to change your wheels and want something that will look half decent, dont think about...
Well valvers and Willys tend to be expensive in labour if you cant do the work yourself. Parts, as usual with Renault, are a bit of a mixed bag - some are reasonable and some are absolutely outrageous eg. £100 for a set of phase 2 plastic rubbing strips
1. Get a 3/4 size plate and put it across where it normally goes.
2. Black definitely seeing as youve still got the roof lines, B-pillar strip etc.
3. Yes
4. If you do another pic get your young lady to pose on the bonnet.;)
Itll be because Renault dont submit the V5 data then, it would have been the importers. Theyre not going to look for too long to find the engine number, so they just dont bother. Same with my valver. Its a French import so no engine number reported to the DVLA.
The offset is, in simple terms, how far the wheels stick out or in from the body of the car. If you imagine the width of the wheel (across the bit where the tyre is mounted) and then halve that, you have a point which is half way between the inner and outer face of the wheel - the centreline...
Tape over all your shut-lines, remove the mirrors and aerial, slam it right down to the ground and stick a big front splitter on, plus experiment with larger or smaller wheels, depending on whether your engines got enough grunt to push a higher final drive, or it needs a helping hand but attains...
I use Hi-Spec 325mm discs and 4 pots up front and the 17s need a 5mm spacer to fit over them properly so theyd go nicely under 18s. I seem to remember Ben was on about Wilwood calipers that you can get but I dont think they do them as a kit or at least I was never able to fathom out their...
Exactly - whats the point of swapping the cams if youre worrying about losing a little bit of torque down the bottom? Surely youre prepared for the trade-off? Although on my 16v the power increase on Piper 270 cams was not that great, it was noticeable, and to be honest there was so little...
the 1.8 needs a slight overbore like 0.5mm or something, obviously the longer stroke crank, a little bit needs machining out inside the block so the crank can rotate properly, the starter mount on the outside is slightly different, not sure whether theyre the same rods, different pistons need...
Both Kent and Piper do a couple of cam profiles that will fit the bill and can be used with hydraulic lifters. Like Ben says, its hardly worth the bother going for the slightly fast road grind in Piper terminology thats a a 270 cam, even though its more like 256 duration. Next step up is...
Two spoilers is never a good look IMHO, especially if ones the factory spoiler and youre sticking another one over it. Looks like a bodge, mainly because it usually IS. You said it yourself, youre basically trying to save yourself a bit of bother and get instant results. Not that Ive not done...
In itself its not really worth thinking about as a standalone mod like some kind of bolt-on free power thing. I think the names a bit misleading. In the boy racer catalogues and mags its called a PBV. In proper motorsport catalogues its just an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, because thats...
If you want polished chrome, you could always take it off, find your nearest electroplaters and get it polished and chromed (they have to polish it before the chrome it anyway). I got a strut brace and rocker cover done for 50 quid at a place near me. Polished alloy always seems to attract dust...
Well I was always very happy with the BMC CDA - mine was the custom model for a BMW 3.0 Z3 which flowed more air than the standard width ones, but whatever fits I suppose. Anyway, put it this way, I never believed a filter could make such an incredible difference until I used the BMC hooked up...
Turbo if youve got the money, nothing can touch it.
If youre thinking of going 2.0 but clawing back a few quid by flogging the 1.8 with or without the box, then forget it. No-one needs 1.8 F7P lumps, theyre cheap as chips cos R19s used them as well. Tuning a 1.8 can work out a lot cheaper if...
Yes I did it a while ago. The standard Morette indicators look like something off a Morris Ital. So they need to go straight in the bin. What I did was go to a motorbike shop and get a pair of miniature side repeater units, then took them apart and used the slimline bulb holders and 21w orange...
Errr when I get my Clio back Ill have a look. I remember the instructions werent very clear on that point. But basically you want to splice a wire in so that when you switch your main beams on it triggers the inner pair of lamps AS WELL AS the outer normal lamps switching to main beam.