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Cut the chassis leg off , building a custom one around the gearbox

he'll get it in, ive got a PK6 in my new monster

how far are you with the conversion mate?

its a known fault to renault but their only doing effected cars, acording to my mate at renault manchester some fella's car vibrated so much due to the drive shaft it set his airbag off

ive got my k-teck exhaust to sit straight and high it needs pushing back and you need to hold the back box right up to the bumper to a point where is bending the plastic tighten it up and voila job done

hitting the rear axle not been fitted properly

german swedish french sell genuine one or ren not too expensive

cup racers have 15 inch rims mate what you on about doing?

engine number on the 172 is on the front of the bottom end

back of the loom the wires rub on the metal protector where it plugs into the ecu or the other thing it may be the coilpack shite on 1.2;s

if the balast was blown it wouldnt work at all , an its sealed too

what ive been told mate, and ive changed all my mounts and my dog bone is a poly bush type

k-tec struggle because they sell things they dont stock but ive had good service from them apart from my fk's took 2 months to come !

just use a 5w 40 fully synth about £15-£10 5litres from factors of GSF change it when its still got a bit of golden colour in it in my case 4000 miles

there is a renault tech note out which refers to this 'juddering' as a problem with the drive shafts , ive got the same problem all new mounts still judders new top strut kits ren say the drive shafts on later 172's were improved and had better weigh distro they are thinner and carry a weight on...

theres an earth wire inside near the bulb it comes loose that will be or a loose connector , worst case could be the starter or ballast

yeah fred , higher comp and low down torque like the yoz mobile like it to rev safely to 8k it aint gonna be a daily driver this is my white 172 project rich i will be taking pictures i want it to be ready for FCS to compete with freds F4R turbo

have to take the top dash off to change the bulb aint hard 3 screws where the windscreen heat comes from 2 screws behind the passenger side trim 2 behind the clocks and one either side of the top dash

bottom end ill be sorting ill be coming to you for the head work ben, Im doing it to learn about engines too

im doing all the work myself, even the mapping via laptop and omex

rebuilding 172 engine from scratch , i want it to rev High, i have con rods forged pistons but i need to know what you lot recomment for the rest starting with the bottom end in the next few weeks including a helix clutch and alu fly wheel the onto the head with some sort of cam , also would you...

172 182 oil filter 82 00 033 408

chop the wires to it and no more bother

its got more torque than standard my birds got one but its still dog slow i rag the pants off it when shes not looking ha ha

new engine is different uses a different throttle body and ecu so you wont be able to change any of the bits

got the spring off? split the box enough to see the selector arm on the other side of the metal circlip un there i think, how many malbough lights you been through tonight ?

yeah he removed the arm, it wont come apart unless you do that. final drive is the big ass gear when you take the white or black cap off the end of the box, becareful of the plastic wheels in the box that drive the speed sensor there t***s to get back in if they fall out

5th gear is at the end , you take the cover off thats the final drive with the selector rod, i was watching the chap strip mine down , im sure he got the final drive off then it all came apart

have you got the 5th gear off?

its easier to take the rad off and fill it , you can buy pumps which will pump it in for about £20, edde is right the millers stuff is superb