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Any high temp paint should be fine. Vapour blasting will clean up the parts to a factory finish.

What models the new megane out of interest?

Forgot to update this cameras up and seems to be working alright has already deterred a few people sniffing around need to adjust it to the right a bit more when I get my ladder back.

As above I’ve got mirrored ncs with different companies.

Thread bump. Do you need to remove the dash to get at the interior bolts do you recall?

Yeah it is probably going to turn into a project Binky type affair, doesn’t help the guy making my adjustable jig was off for two months.

Removing the heater box I’ve got the bolts out from under the scuttle are the any from the interior or does it just pull out? Asking before I break it trying to get it out.

Have to remove the whole dash so it’s going to be a ball ache but easily doable.

Timing belt looks like it was done properly as well..:rolleyes:

https://www.silverstoneauctions.com/events/2017-auctions/the-silverstone-classic-sale-2017/the-silverstone-classic-sale-2017-sale/2pm-sunday-cars/1988-peugeot-205-gti-1.9-5-726-miles

When you think a 205 gti sold for 40 grand it’s not unrealistic to think low milage, low owner clios will be getting towards that territory in 10 years time.

I think the best thing to do is find someone with a turbo clio who will let you have ago. There’s something about being able to rev out a na engine that I always find myself missing with older style turbo’d cars.

Engine out, took me longer than I care to admit to work out why it didn’t look right on the stand. Belts issue

Clean it and paint/dye it usually brings it up nice again.

Both I think not a massive amount just to even out the arch gap around the wheel.

Definitely needs to come up a touch, finish on the wheels looks decent!

Wiring fault somewhere also check the relays for water/corrosion.

Put a jack under the exhaust to take the weight, undo the mounts and the clamp to the center section then jiggle it about until you get it in position. They are a bit of a nightmare to get lined up tbh, you can spend ages getting it right then soon as you drive it a bit the exhaust moves again.

Saw Chris from efi post about dodgy eBay injectors so could be your issue?

If the ecu is receiving no signal from the lambda either the sensor is faulty or you've got a wiring loom fault somewhere.

Yeah I did that on the first one but it was taking to long, drill had the heads off pretty fast. Anyone who wants some semi decent cheap metal bits these are pretty good cut like butter if you drill a pilot first. https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-straight-shank-hss-drill-bits-25-piece-set/2726v

Couldn’t be fucked to even try undo them.. :ROFLMAO:

Yeah but that was happening anyway, all the RS models bar the Megane have been discontinued and I can’t see the Megane sticking around much longer either. Renault basically seem to be doing a Peugeot atm.

Find where the waters got in basically.

Great work! Planning on sticking mine on a jig in a few weeks too how have you connected it to the rear out of interest? Did you also find much corrosion underneath the seam sealer at all?

After an air compressor to power die grinders, spraying equipment and a blasting cabinet. I figure I need something with a 14cfm rating to cover all the bases, been looking at the Clarke raider and boxer series. Would anyone recommend anything else (£500 max)

Sounds like the mechanics fucked it then it’s only a thin piece of pipe.

How bizarre have you had the alternator replaced recently or anything?

Take the undertray off and see if you can get it out of gear by wiggling the selector about.

Before you start changing any parts try jumping it with the negative on the engine block this should rule out a bad earth.