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yeah in the haynes it sez you will need to drain you g/box oil before hand, dont bother if you change it quick you wont lose much fluid..it doesnt screw in that far either
its a little green thing behind the n/s driveshaft
yeah i was thinking to check the brake hoses, my pads should be fine i replaced them about 6 months ago and they seem like theyve got loads left on em!
its the fact that they do it intermittently thats worrying!
i think ive got a dogy caliper at the front as sometimes when braking the pedal will almost travel to the floor before biting and if you keep the pressure on the pedal it makes a squeeling noise and sounds pretty nasty...i thought it was the master cylinder at first but when i discovered it...
yeah its easy mate, i changed it bcos of the juddering in 2nd when backing off etc, but it didnt solve the problem, guess the prob lies in another engine mount!
yeah ive checked the servo like that, thats what it says in the haynes, so if i can push the pedal down to the floor ( which i cant) its the master cylinder? what else do you think could cause this problem cos im stuck!
the cylinders at the rear have been replaced, along with the shoes which was done last week..i have had the car bk to the mechanic twice and he cant find anything wrong.
where abouts is the servo pipe mate?
iv got problems when braking, where occasionaly the brake pedal travels almost to the floor before biting , whereas 70% of the time it is fine an bites much earlier. i have bled the brakes twice and also checked the servo as outlined in the haynes..so the fault looks to be with the master...
i got new rear cylinders and the shoes replaced yesterday, the difference in braking performance was amazing, yet today when driving to work 90% of the time the brake work brilliant with minimum travel and then occasionaly the pedal will travel alot further before biting..what could cause this?
yep it is a 10 minute job mate, i didt it on my rt. i replaced mine cos i had the judder when backing off and braking, but it didnt solve the problem so im gunna replace the driver side mount as im pretty sure this is casing it.
thanks malice, di you have any probs securing it in the engine bay, you know was the thread long enought etc to fit the circulat rubber/metal fixing under the bonnet?
did renault make a different design of top mount for the later mk1 clio RTs?
i ask because ive got some gmax dampers (front) and they already come with the nut, when i tried fitting them and they didnt fit( and after a mechanic saying he couldnt get em to fit) i rang up gmax to ask why there...
cheers fellas, i could ge tthe bolt off if i wanted i.e by cuttting it etc but the point is i dont want if possible cos it will mena my car will be off the road whilst im trying to locate another bolt, i mean the bolt itself has a 16mil head, bout 10 mil wide, 3 inch long and , a 20 mil nut with...
i came to change my rear dampers today for some uprated ones, the bottom 18mil bolt came out fine, but the top (16mil head, 20 mil nut) undid fine till it got to the end of the thread now it wont budge , i cant even tighten it bk up cos its solid and i was only using an adjustable on the nut so...
im changing my standard shocks and dampers this weekend for uprated ones, while the struts are out what else should i change?
ive looked in the gsf catalogue and for the struts they list a "top mounting " and a "bearing" should i change these aswell?
my heater knob that directs the air flow is stuck, its fixed on blowing out of the vents only, and i really need it to aim at the windscreen especially when the weathers like it is at the mo. ive had a good luck behind the knob and ive traced the wire back but it just doesnt seem to want to...
i did mine is bout 30 mins they cost about 15 quid from http://www.eurocarparts.co.ukwww.eurocarparts.co.uk thats for an RT tho. i replaced mine cos the car was juddering a bit but it didnt seem to make much difference obviously the fault lies in one of the other mounts!