Search results

Had a look round the exhaust today and there was nothing obviously loose. Although I revved the engine from the throttle body before and replicated the noise while I was looking in the engine bay, it appears to be coming from the lower inlet area, initial thought was fuel rail guard. I took that...

Just to echo what's been said, Arcan Jack. One of the best things I ever bought tool wise.

Had a search and couldn't find anything specific to the recent rattling buzzing I've been getting. At around 3.8k I get this noise from the passenger side of the car and it definitely coming from the outside of the car, it sounds like something is loose. Best way to explain would be like a...

Had mine fitted for a good 6/7 months now I think it is and no issues with it at all.

I'm a maybe now. If it's raining tomorrow I won't be able to put the car back together.

If you'd spend less time taking photos and more time working we may have got those ball joints before it had gone dark. Only kidding :P Just skimmed through your thread, never realised how much time and effort you'd spent cleaning the dampers and top hats up. :O

I'll be there :)

Yeahhh he's helped me with various problems on my car and has always come up trumps. If Rhys can't fix it then it's probably unfixable

Yeah drop Rhys a p.m. He's a little modest but is a genius with Clios, although he may insist on playing with your driveshaft

Definitely prefered my 172 Cup to my current ph-1. The only thing I prefer on the ph-1 is the cable throttle as it just feels a lot more responsive and reacts quicker compared to the DBW throttle. Baring that though the Cup made me a smile a alot more than the ph-1 has.

Cheaper to insure your car under a modified policy with Brentacre.

Bare with me I'll link the thread I found with all the info needed. I should have searched 1st before posting this really. Edit: http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?557992-Fitting-matched-inlets There's a written guide on page 2 I think it is, then pictures on page 3.

Doesn't matter now, managed to find the answers I need.

Just a question regarding removing lower inlet before I attempt it. I've read previously that part of the alternator brackets need removing before you can get the lower inlet off, is this due to access to the bolts or can you not physically get the lower inlet out with the alternator brackets...

I paid £11.40 per side from GSF.

The difference between an old one and new one is unbelievable. One of them didn't have any play or show any signs of wear but when I took it off and compared it to the new one the difference in the resistance in the joint was massive.

Changed mine a few weeks ago as I had play in one of them. Not a particularly hard job to do it's just the lack of access that can make it a pain.

That's right yeah.

Normally has a black pipe there that runs down to the acoustic valve, if the acoustic valve has been removed it needs that pipe blanking off other wise the car will idle very high. The breather is at the back of the rocker cover.

Swapped fuel filter this morning after getting a face full of V-power lol. Took the car out before and there was no hesitation, may have cured the problem but only time will tell.

I've driven a SC clio, not with the amount of power as this one has but it was still a lot of fun to drive even if it was only a very short journey lol. I personally wouldn't do it as I couldn't justify the cost involved on a car worth so little these days. To say it ruins the car though isn't...

Yeah behaves as it should when cold and yeah only ever does it at 4k rpm in 4th and 5th gear.

Yeah I was going to just for the sake of knowing it's done then. Pretty sure it's beyond it's best now it's done 98k lol.

Got a bit of random issue that's developed. Every now and then I get a weird hesitation in the throttle response at around 4k rpm in 4th and 5th gear, more so in 5th gear and only does it on light throttle, if I put a bit more throttle on the problem disappears. Best way to describe would be...

Kangarooing around and trying to stall lol. My Cup was fine on 95 and didn't make any difference to anything with what ever fuel I used, although it was a very strange car that one. On the Ph-1 there's a significant difference, whether the extra 30k miles on it plays a part in that I don't know.

I have to admit I was one of these people who was on the "It doesn't matter what fuel you use it makes no difference" band wagon but just recently I've changed my opinion completely. I'd swapped over to V-power a few months ago as Paul at RStuning suggested the car would respond alot better on...

Nae bad for a Ph-1 :P Nah only kidding mate, looks brilliant.

States in the advert that one of the problems is it needs the tracking doing. Why wouldn't you get that sorted before selling the car? Not a big or expensive problem to sort.

Yeah Opieoils don't stock it. I used Millers gearoil from there last time but the box was very stiff when the oil was cold so I'm just going to stick to using the recommended stuff.

3 litres and the grade specified by Renault is 75w-80. The stuff in the above links is what Renault specify. Edit: The box might actually hold 4 litres but not certain, when I changed the gear oil on my Cup I only used 3 litres to fill it up.