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They look lovely ?, might look into a retrim now if mine don't clean up how I want.

Removed subframe assembly, rear beam and Whiteline ARB, broke down to individual parts, stripped all the bushes bolts and sensors off then took them to powder coaters for a refresh yesterday. Today I'll be taking the Trendlines out to try polish the scratches out the plastic backs from my kids...

Is the clip you're using an eBay job or genuine?

Yeh sure, will be a few weeks though as I'm waiting for Quaife

Not fitted the new ones yet as my gearbox is in for a rebuild but at a previous MOT the garage changed the CV gator and the band they used to secure it fouled on the block and splattered grease all over the place as soon as I drove off ?. The boot clips/bands on these are almost flush with the...

DS20 for nearside

I measured everything compared to my old shaft and it's all the same

Couldn't budge mine but it's been on there for 18 years I suppose. Think I've found the correct part anyway and it's only £2 part no. 8200117465 if anyone else needs a new one.

Yeh they said this was the correct part for Clio 172 sport with ABS maybe I just need to source a 182 dust seal separately

Yeh it's weird my original shaft seems to have some sort of dust seal pressed on during manufacture that aftermarket replacements don't have.

This is the part they sent me DS248 but my original has a pressed on rubber seal at the gearbox end and this doesn't. Still haven't had an answer back from them to confirm if I need to source a seal or if this design doesn't require one

P & J Powder Coatings in Glasgow

I've just been quoted £160 for powder coating rear beam, subframe, wishbones, ARB with brackets and inlet manifolds. All parts have to be removed and delivered by me at this price so I'd imagine about £60 for the beam alone but obviously prices will vary.

That's the better one of my Clio's I'm trying to get on top of this one early. You saw the fuel filler on my other motor I think it definitely needs professional help.

Will do guys the product list will come in handy and thanks for the advice.

Hi Kevin, I understand I'm not going to get a definitive answer and price will differ from place to place was just wondering if everyone had just had a go themselves or had a professional take care of it. Local places with good reputation are yourselves at Protek also Car and Bike. I messaged...

Anyone had a body shop repair the jack points and treat to prevent rust and paint. I've checked loads of threads but can't find any prices for professional work being carried out, any ideas anyone?

CR Turbos are good to deal with if you'd rather not buy off Fleabay

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F153532277738

Hello and welcome to the forum. Look forward to your project updates

Sorting the cloudy headlights will always make a massive difference.

Welcome to the forum, what's next on the colour palette?

Worked then stopped then worked then stopped. Sound fine to me ?. What car is it mate and someone will give the location of the relay to check

Its mounted to the directly to the body by the backplate standard so don't see what difference it would make to mount directly? Someone will know better than me on here though

Thanks I'll have a look at putting one together

Did you have to fabricate your own bracket at the log manifold there?

Cool I'll just go overkill and get a set of copper gaskets, some locking washers and copper locknuts. If that doesn't prevent gasses leaking for a while i don't think anything will

Hi I was wondering if you only felt the need to upgrade the T2 gasket because of it blowing at the manifold or did you loose the standard T25/T28 gasket in favour of the more malleable copper plate aswell?

Hi Kevin, how much are you looking to spend roughly? Couple of good RB's about just now around the 4k mark..

Hi I was wondering if I should still be able to read the current calibration file while my ECU is removed from the vehicle?