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Shame it only goes upto 150c as would be ideal for brake temps on track

Double digit IQ and a SnapBack required for GTR ownership

Did you make sure the special spacer washer went back on between the stub axle and wheel bearing/disc assembly

'' no driver aids '' exhibit 1

Back to Toyo R1R then

research from looking through news reports

I'd be really annoyed if it had just had the de-phaser and cam belt service done.

Reminded me of when I popped a knacker through the base a plastic chair on holiday and couldn’t move

Just watching this video would suggest to me that the head bolts don't have enough stretch in them causing the block to crack in the thread casting area due to heat expansion between the head and block

Probably, but I think they forgot to factor in “driven by ham fisted Neanderthals” variable into the equation... Only kidding, heat cycles are what people are thinking is the issue

Not so much of an issue this time of year Dan, but I would look into an enclosed air box for the filter to keep summer intake temps as low as possible, something like a ITG maxogen from a Audi TT.

You'll end up with radiation poisoning off that thing

" those wheels " couldn't resist :kissingheart:

I'm sure someone will have a UCH, ECU and keys for sale for less than what Renault will rob you Put a wanted ad up, It's a plug and play job Jim

I would say you have too much rear spring bias anyway and adding a rarb would push it to being too tail happy, I would run a 525-550 front spring with a 600 rear and wouldn't bother with a rear arb but fit a PMS axle strengthening kit instead

In gear oil ?

I think Jim is my new hero if he can use the car as a daily on those poundage springs for more than a month

The Harness is now in the Micra, The seat has been smuggled into the loft before mrs bash spotted it, got a picture with James sat in it so I can use the old ''You've seen it before, I've had it ages'' and show photographic evidence to back it up when I pull it out to use it in a few months...

Can't wait to buy it off you just after christmas:smile:

Reduction in unsprung weight makes the suspension keep the tyre on the road more of the time, BUT! Faster acceleration comes form the moment of inertia, which is ''a quantity expressing a body's tendency to resist angular acceleration, which is the sum of the products of the mass of each...

https://www.celtictuning.co.uk/services/performance-stats/alfa-romeo/156-1997-2005/diesel/2-4-jtd-20v-175-bhp-1997-2005-ECU-remap-chiptuning/stage-1#t3-content

Buy an Alfa Jim, either Craig will be sick of fixing it or it'll have blown up after 3 months anyway. I'd personally recommend 156 2.4 jtd they're proper torque monsters once remapped.

Excellent work matey :up: it's motivated me to get cracking on with next seasons hillclimber again

needs bigger breathers by the sound if it's popping seals out, Car & car conversions is what became PPC I think John

The workmanship is just immense, you should be very proud.

Rear wheels need swapping side to side matey as the tyres are directional and pointing the wrong way

Micra needs Lowz then it'll do the clio through the twisteez, k11 micra's are the ultimate new driver's car use to being cheap to own and run, plus they are indestructible mechanically

Good work Dan, keep chipping away at it you've got six months before the good weather returns so don't rush it.:up:

This is copied from another thread and i'm too lazy to write it again: I did a lot of research on ratios for the hillclimber and what Mark says above is 100% you can do it on the cheap with the shorter fifth gear set but ultimately the gripper final drive is the way to go for the required...