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what, my old 172?
Accoding to this forum it's faster than a Ferrari, with more cornering ability than a 2007 F1 car.
(In reality, it was a shopping trolley with an oversized engine that did very well at hiding it's "drive-forever-forward", FWD nature)
That I respect. Your motor, your tastes, do what you want.
It's only others opinion of it.
Just because it looks like it's been in a freak accident and the parts have just come off a breaker, so what.
Look at those Golfs that people paint in rust, they look f**king s**t, but some people...
See I dont know what it is, but I get a nice induction whine in the 3-4.5k range, nothing silly, in fact probably not even noticeable from outtside, but nice.
In fairness, there was only about 10hp and 15lb/ft difference until they neutered the 1.6.
Then gave the 1.8 some swanky valves to get the 146hp.
But the same swanky valves cause all manner of agro if you want to do anything other that slap an intake and chavzorst on it
not that I've heard of fella.
Typically I go to Barney Bear (?), but if you've got a decent block for a good price, take it.
1.6 or 1.8?.... if the smaller, this could be the perfect time to upgrade....except.....oh yea,then your intake probably wont fit.
I hear they're putting the finishing touched to the much-requested 3-door version, but there are still concerns that it's not big enough for a small hatch.
Pre-release rendering attached
yes, because a car imported 10yrs ago wont possibly have any rust.
The only good things about an Import:-
- higher rev limit on S-VT
- Split-fold sun visors so you have an option between being blinded by the sun or having no view of the road (I've even gone so far as to fit these)
Nutz = Maximum scene tax.
Imagine how CS overvalues trendlines, it's exactly the same principle. Also, its amazing how many UK-registered cars on there are, somehow, an import. ultralol
I guess they were sold in Reading, exported to Hiroshima, then sent back.
Nah, you can get alternative pulley kits.....From 949racing, I think.
I'd need an ECU too, to run my valve timing.
I'll ask The guy over in P'boro what he's got, 480 for a 20yr old, mass-market block is mental. I'd expect you're paying scene tax. MX5OC purchases are tax-free ;)
Ah! Coolant hoses, fair enough, blowers don't do massive temperature increases.
If it was one of those ghey fan-in-the-exhaust things, then there'd be no hiding from the facts of tuning.
Still, it's a bugger, hope you can get it up and running without too much grief.....failing that, I'll take...
Nothing at all to do with boost, not at all. ;)
Nothing works EASILY with S-VT, you'd need a newer version of Megasquirt of Hydra. But the benefits are apparently rather good for lite-boost options.
I'll also check with my man in Peterborough who's got sheds full of MX5 parts
If you see some unused wires floating around in the door when you take the speaker out, then yes, get those re-attached and you should be fine.
There'd also be redundant wire in the rear "door" cards too, looks like all 4 channels were going through the amp.
Any reason why you dont just plug...
so hows that welsik boost y0! going for you then fella?
:wink:
EDIT: Time for an S-VT Transplant then....
EDIT 2: Except you cant now, because you'll need a mk2 loom to hook it into.
As much as you speak the truth, taking Paddock Hill flat, and getting down a potholed B-road are two very different principles. Hence why Renaultsport ROAD VEHICLES aren't set-up like Cup Racers or FR3.5s
So, sure, run a 5mm ride height, just don't expect to have any lower bodywork left after 15...