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Too much power, design flaw or just because they’re old?

Never heard of that one before. R396R (right-hand side) is the correct part number for your car. But as above, 44 tooth pickup ring.

I have a spare update tuner list which I recently took out my 182. I lost the stickers unfortunately when I de-gunked the fascia. Works perfectly. Open to offers. Note* If you want to keep the stickers from yours, the fascia’s are easily swapped.

I have the iCarsoft CR V2.0. Mine came bundled with six car manufacturers and set me back £99. It’s gotten me out of trouble many times with my old Clio, even though I still have no idea what I’m doing. It can read pretty much all the modules, including the steering angle sensor reset and live...

The only caveat is that they run like a pig before the mapping.

It’s possible I guess, but I’m not familiar with any garages who do both. On the couple of occasions I had mine done, the garage did the timing, then arranged with the tuner - about an hour away - to map it the same day.

Shaftec are more money but they're essentially a refurbished genuine part. You want R396L which replaces 8200372167. You can get them easily enough, but sounds like your garage couldn’t be arsed. A common theme with these old cars. You should be able to pick them up online, but DMFX in...

My first track cars engine was stock with Group N timing and EFi map, a few other small upgrades but essentially stock. My last car had an engine dynamics race build, ITBs, Gen 90 (226 bhp). I wouldn’t bother putting ITBs on a stock engine. It’ll sound nice, but that’s about it. I‘d only put...

Happy to chip in. Keeping the engine standard, they respond really well with the right supporting mods, is the way to go. Group N timing and a custom map at EFI will make a noticeable difference without compromising reliability. You'll be able to stretch its legs on longer straights without...

Has the screen been replaced at any point that you know of? My old 182 CUP track car had the bonnet put through the screen, and Autoglass couldn't get me a factory replacement.

Same connector found on the Carbon canister, which is situated behind the headlight. Worth checking.

If you’re in for a couple of grand, then I’m definitely in for ten times that. It’s good to see these cars getting sorted, though it’s not easy given the scarcity of some parts.

Parts cannon at the ready….

I once forgot to tighten the pinch bolt holding the ball joint in. Knocking sound going over rough ground. Worth double-checking.

Reducing the fluid level generally works well, and Redline power steering fluid is excellent. You can find it here: Redline Power Steering Fluid. Currently on offer. There’s a guide on how to change the power steering fluid as well here: ClioSport Guide.

Yep, and the VDO part number is (A2C59513667)

I did what Brigsy did. Box on the chest, then bench press it up, get a bolt in. The second time around, I took the engine out, much easier.

Yeah, been there with my Black Gold 182, luckily, it was the track car. Frog tape works well.

Cheers. It’s a case of needs must these days, given the shortage of new parts. 4th clean pass, so pretty chuffed tbh. I was surprised to see the refrigerant recorded as recovered, since it was 100% depressurised. Likely a default setting in the machine’s program. Yes, it’s a complete pain, as...

Very common for them to rust behind the canister. Same process as before. Wire brush down to metal and build back up with degreaser, hydrate-80, primer, 447/UB, then a lick of paint. Picture of mine when I did under the arches and it’s still holding out nearly 4 years on.

You can use DINITROL 4941 and Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 together, but they’re for different purposes. To do the job right: Pop the skirt off and scrape off all rust and loose paint with a wire brush. Get to the bare metal Degrease it well. Hit it with Hydrate-80 to kill the rust, let it dry (24...

A faulty injector is a strong possibility. If it’s clogged or malfunctioning it’ll cause a misfire, rough running and an engine light. The intermittent flashing generally happens when the engine is under load. Could be something else, but you’ve eliminated plugs, leads, coil pack so it’s the...

Corrected myself. Having a blonde moment.

Upper engine mount - next to the timing belt Upper gearbox mount - below the battery tray Lower gearbox mount - dogbone ? Edit - gearbox mount sits on the subframe. My bad.

I'll give you your 'dew' - you're spot on 😜 Grass creates its own microclimate - like sending your car on a spa day without the warmth or drying time, and only rust on the menu. Carpet is another misstep, as it also holds moisture, especially outdoors, and even to a lesser degree inside a...

It's marginally better on mine now, but I'm not really an engine perfectionado, so I thought it was a lot worse than it actually was. Ultimately, it's just a sticking plaster, so I'll address it when I absolutely have to. There are some incredibly knowledgeable people on these forums who are...

Yeah, it's probably down to regular washes, whereas it's just creeping around when they're doing nothing. Corrosion is the big one, since it's the hardest to keep on top of. Engines can be refreshed relatively cheaply, but once these things start to rot, they become a real liability - unless...

I ran Group N timing, an EFI map and an ITG intake on my 182 track car. It transformed its performance on the circuit, although I’d be hesitant to run it on a road car due to how lumpy it was at idle — it used to cut out regularly. Most of the chaps doing TDT have it on their cars.

Yeah, I'm learning more and more about these F4R engines every day. When I think about my first Black Gold road 182, it got hammered and never used a drop of oil. Same for my first dedicated track 182 — that thing got smashed for four years straight. The engine in that was brilliant. I used to...