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And I just bought the mirror alone, as it's like £25 for the fitting kit, then made up my own brackets etc, but tbh next time I'd just pay for the alloy fitting kits and bolt it to the roll cage, as mine vibrates quite a bit..
Picked up an AP racing bias valve the other day just need to bleed the brakes and go for a test drive, if that doesn't work, I'm gonna try taking two lines from the MC rather than blocking one port and using the other...
Logically this makes sense, of opening up both the holes so it spreads...
I use polycarbs in my non garaged road legal racecar (soon to be)
The polycarbs are bolted in, they leak through the sliders but it's runs down the door and out through the holes at the bottom of the door, the roof scoop leaks alot more...
The sliders are square ones, easily opened with...
Guess what lads...
Still no f**king difference! (the compensator valve is out)
So yeah next steps:
- Have the 2 rear lines coming out to MC then T piece is back down to 1 line, logically it makes sense that there will be more pressure if 1 line is blocked off rather having 2 lines
or
- Buy...
it will lock if handbrake is connected or not,
The tyre pressure are good and not s**t tyres direzzas.
I've had 2 sets of suspension on the car and it has been doing the same thing over both (ghas and asts)
I have changed the height of the car around varying different levels of rake and...
So Fuel tank back in, rear axle, etc etc
So last job to sort was the brakes, lines made, brakes bled, car down and wheels torqued up.
Excitedly took it for a drive, put my foot on the brakes hard... STILL LOCKING UP ON THE REARS [emoji36] [emoji36] [emoji36] [emoji36] [emoji36] [emoji36]...
Not an exciting update, but had some sleeved spacers made up to suit the m12 thread on the asts to work with the PMS top mounts.
as you can see the old ones ID was m16 and slipped over the ridge so meant when fitting the top threaded sleeve nut wouldn't clamp down on the bearing (2nd picture...
Type in electrical probe in Google, much more useful than a multimeter, can check earth's and recreates earth's a lives at the flick of a switch.
In terms of your throttle, remove the TB and you'll see where the butterfly valve wears unevenly on the inner casing from constant opening and...
Cant judge your humour, but its like the comparison on prices between Renault parts direct and Renault themselves. So its always good to ask.
OK mate, i'll give them a call any idea in bolt size? thread/pitch?
Need a hand with anything give me a holla.
Noticed on your list *check difficulty of MC change. Its pretty fiddly, but can be done with the engine in, I've done it loads of times.
And might have to bring my rear beam to yours for welding of strengthening and bearings ;)
Yeah tbh a lot of people have positive reviews with the same set up using Wilwood, I think mine was maybe a cheap copy I'm trying to think where i bought it from.
So yeah might just buy another bias valve, and then if that doesn't work we can point the finger at the compensator etc
Pretty bad, say if you're in a situation where the lights change to red, and you've got to put the brakes on pretty firmly, well if i over cook it they lock up, they used to lock up for fun before i put the bias valve in and made up my lines, so must of done something...
standard i think...
Yep £100 [emoji16] gonna buy some ford pressure reducers and remove the compensator valve, then see how that goes... If not I'll remove the OBP and replace with a tilton one I think...