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Thanks for the answers peeps :)
Just checking as I sent a message to Renparts asking for cup wishbones and they said they had none
Now at least I know I can buy non cups & they will fit :)
Thanks again! Jon
Injury recovery time is not good for you bank balance.
Broke my back in May and it nearly broke the bank while I was bored at home ordering bits! Haha :(
http://www.undergroundgraphics.com/
I use them
Send an email direct instead of going through eBay and you save a little money cos of fees etc.
Quick delivery and a decent product :)
Jon
Iirc the selector shaft is the common spot for the box leaking. So if you address this you should be good for leaks then!
Tbh I'm not sure what else you'd have to replace, as I'm not running a diff. but will be rebuilding my box next year with new synchro's and whatever else is worn.
Just...
Fixed
Turned out it was the throttle body
Plugged in the code reader and it came up with P0120 throttle position sensor. Nicked the throttle pedal from the girlfriends Clio and this didn't cure it. So thought lets just change the throttle body over as I had a spare and this cured it!
So even...
Checked the plug first thing. All plugged in fine and it's not wet around it otherwise I woulda been happy to eliminate that one first :( I hate electrics....
Edit: If it's still doing it in the morning I'm gona plug in the diagnostics to see what comes up and luckily have a spare TB so will...
Copied from the faults thread:
On a 182 cup-
Casually driving my car along, change gear go to get on the throttle and nothing
Look down and I have SERV, traction control light, electrical fault light and the yellow engine light on in the corner
Turned the car off and on, car sits at just over...
Casually driving my car along, change gear go to get on the throttle and nothing
Look down and I have SERV, traction control light, electrical fault light and the yellow engine light on in the corner
Turned the car off and on, car sits at just over 2000 rpm and the throttle has no input...
Chip, did you modify the arms in the end or just bolt in a different variant?
Haha probably more of an idea than me :P although I am trying!
I did notice his thread a few days ago. Will have to have a proper read through as I got quite confused with all the different methods people were...
Just as you've pointed out, they both have good points! Would you say castor has a positive effect to the extent it would be worth sacking off the strut brace for?
P.s sorry for all the questions, you look like you might know 'because race car' :)
Wondering which would be the better set up for road & track work
Either:
PMS top mount kit & strut brace as this is a highly praised set up with a strut brace that works with the Clio
and
Eibach camber bolts for setting up a bit of negative (thought -1.5 for road & track?)
OR
AST top mounts...
Bad luck luke :(
Insurance companies are always a nightmare. Haven't noticed from the thread whether it was an economical write off or too dangerous to repair?
I 'wrote off' my cup in January. But as my father owns his own vehicle repair business we were given money in lieu minus the cost to...
Don't bother. Wait for Fred@BTM to build his systems. Not long to wait I think :)
I have a Milltek but they are quite a heavy system. Hence why they eat through rear mounts and crack welds. Plus they don't sit brilliantly tbh.
Jon
http://www.k-tecracing.com/show_product.asp?id=4241&appid=2
Possibly that. Im only using best guesswork though from what I've previously read on here :)
Cheers bud. As much as I'd like to ride again, and the doctor and physio has said I will get back to 100% strength and fitness etc. so could ride no problem, it's not really sensible! My physio said if it happens again or if I get hit by another bike in my back then I could cause severe damage...