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Ah ok , then wouldn't the motor or column be an issue rather than the rack ?

That's not right , what's it feel like then ? What rack are you using ?

If yours is can networked like Ph2 then I'm assuming the light may come on after removal of ECU . Mine did as its a default to do that . Warning lamp line is earthed and boom she pings up . But with all the wires now gone on mine the warning lamp line doesn't exist now , so no light at all .

Nope

That's the one I have also

I don't have one , I just took the lot out , power and Earth go to loom joint behind glovebox , all other wires cut out . One goes to lamp in cluster , all others from ECU go to bags and sensors . Bin that lot .

Cracking read [emoji1303] Bloody good effort also. Will read all of the thread later . I'm also in the middle of doing my loom . So far I've removed Rear loom for wiper and lock loom Also airbag loom and aircon/heater . Just need to sort out the EPAS wiring while I'm in the area...

Outer joints don't knock off no . Inner joints need to be removed and the gator slides down the shaft .

If only these were fitted before your off . [emoji12] I had a similar off at Bedford and my front bumper saw the grass . Thank god for cable ties .

I did the same , the raised curve of the lid I pumped a little bit of sealer around the edges. I did mine across rather than down as it kept the amount of coming through the side of the tailgate to a minimum. The water still comes in . Every time I open the lid , water that's come in through...

Couple of scenarios : 1 ) If ECU is still fitted and bags all removed , fit cheap resistors in plugs , lamp goes off for MOT happy days . 2) If loom and ECU are no longer fitted lamp will not come on anyway so that's an MOT advise then . 3 ) If loom is still in car , bags and ECU removed...

Rake [emoji1303] love it

Check the inlet manifold gasket . Spray water around the inlet where it bolts to the cylinder head . The green coloured gaskets were prone to leaking .

Ouch sad times : where abouts was your off just out of interest . Handbrake cables off , flexy hoses off , make sure you spray up the axle nuts and bolts securing it to the car as I've heard they can be a right ball ache to undo . If the rear shocks haven't been off in a while , spray...

To be honest . If you look about for a good second hand cat , have a look inside and check the monolith cell , if it's not loose of blocked it should be a good to go 2nd hand option . Look up Renparts on eBay .

Is it a genuine OE replacement cat or a Micky mouse one ? Normally the Micky mouse cats are not efficient . I'd be looking for a good 2nd hand OE cat and go from there. The sensors should be ok .

Did my O/S inner Only needed the one . If it's the N/S your doing , might be cheaper to get a second hand "good" shaft , but would you know it's a good'n. Might just be worth buying the gaitor's and doing them. Part number Genuine OE part. I wouldn't use anything else .

Nice update , shame the car is 75miles odd away . It'll all come together soon enough . Now the sun is out - full steam ahead i suspect .

Id say it's up to you if you wanted to fit a 6pk. The only reason it would jump is if it was off line . Never heard of a belt jumping through normal operation . 5pk is the norm to fit . Good question

Ok - now it's clearer , we know what your after. I'm pretty sure that set up was not only GTX R5. I'm guessing other R5 , 9 , 11 would be very similar if not the same . IE the metal plate that bolts to the block .

Can you remember what way you put it down the spindle . If you've put it wrong then the lowest washer will deff wear . Have a look under the mount and see .

I think that piece goes metal side down the stud . Doesn't it stop half way down the stud then the mount on top. I can see a chamfer on the metal side of that washer . That'll deff sit on the stud half way down and stop there.

This order

I did remove the ECU bracket . Mine hasn't the tamperproof lock fitted so it was easy to remove the loom ECU connector. If yours is still fitted , you may just be able to push it to the side and remove the spider that way. I'm presuming you don't need to remove the spider to actually fit the...

Mk1 Clio 1.8 engine mount isn't the same as a 1.7 R5 front o/s mount . What exactly are you after to make it clear to others fella.

I removed the spider because I wanted to check the bolt was tight before I put it back .

Pics for your pleasure [emoji6]

I went top . Just seems trying to be different with wheels doesn't work when you want weight savings for track as there isn't much out there that's lite and cheap.

I've heard various things about not starting , could be one of many . Best thing is to get the Renault Clip diag tool on it after you've located the port . Also check the relays out in the engine bay for corrosion and just being shitty contacts in general. It could just be a coded key gone down...

This lump at the bottom