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Pretty much yeah, basically puts the brakes through a cycle & cleans off the disc. Problem occurs when sitting at traffic lights for example with hot brakes, the pads transfer to the disc.
I get it sometimes on my 200. No doubt everyone will have a different way of going about it but I get the brakes hot after a few heavy ish braking sets & then drive for a while without using the brakes to let them cool. park without the h-brake on (leave it in gear).
Works for me.
Can't say I've ever had problems late braking on standard modified set ups.
Besides braking late is only good if you have the grip to corner at the entry speed without scrubbing off speed & ruining your exit run.
The idea is to enter at a usable speed if you need to lift or god forbid brake...
I agree with Harv tbh. Seen so many people being gradual on brakes which cooks the life out of them.
Power-brake-turn in-power. As quickly smoothly & efficiently as possible.
Welcome,
I know many have there reasons for changing from the corsas having had a VXR as company cars in the past I understand. I'm interested to know what your reasons were to change?
If it was me, I'd probably try & locate the leak first with a watering can. Sort that out & go from there about the clean up operation.
I'd probably try and towel soak the majority of the water & park it in the garage leaving it to properly dry with air getting to it.
With the sunroof I...
I wouldn't bother. There are better kits out there if you're wanting to throw money at it & IMO Wilwoods aren't all that great.
If you're looking for more stopping power get a good set of pads & discs combo with fluid & hoses & maybe some ducting. If you're struggling with them I'd sooner look...
Probably not those Bridgestone's they use are enduro tyres practically made out of wood lol. The chassis is an old 97 Birel job or something, massively stiff haha.
Not very economical & have heard horror stories about reliability (I work with Jap cars)
Certainly with the RX8's which is the same idea being a w**kell motor they seem to start having problems with the rotor tips beyond about 40K & need rebuilds.
They aren't like driving a proper kart thats for sure but with your TKM back ground you should be alright i'd imagine providing it was tkm 2 stroke and not the smokey 4's. Direct drive and all that.
I did a bit with them & have to say despite max standards being bad (senior death as i call it) I thought the difference in standards was terrible. Some people in c100 have literally no race craft at all & seemed literally clueless lol.
But saying that on the opposite side there was some good...
Nice one pal. I'm of the same back ground as you except I went down the Max route.
Couldn't get on with club100's chassis tho made out of pig iron & tyres made out of recycled bin lids lol & i'm confident my budgie has more bhp ;)
With mine,
Went easy on it for the first couple of hundred miles (lot's of varied driving through the rev range pre 6k & always getting it up to temp).
Hit 800 miles and started giving it a bit more.
Hit 1k & gave it the beans.
I've not "knowingly" driven with red stuff. Green stuff is terrible & I can't say I've heard much good about the rest of the range (cars).
Apparently they're good for bike pads tho.
I have driven on Green stuff tho (different compound) they were useless.
As above, drive it and see what breaks.
An all round freshen up would be a good place to start tho if your wanting to spend money.... Bushes/Rods/bearings/bars etc & maybe look at the brakes.
Other than that just enjoy it.